Mjolnir Thor Hammer

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Here it is! My version of the cracked Mjolnir Hammer of the Mighty Thor. I also have a listing for the normal version, where this one came from. The old listing will still be here, but this version is so much better. This 3D file (not a physical product) is one of the best you will find in my shop! I am very proud of it. It is very accurate, you can even spin it around and disassemble it for travel, or even make a hollow version to install electronics inside! Let’s review what the files include:

You need to scale all files down to 90% if you want it to be accurate in size to Portman's hammer.

- Solid head: if you are not interested in building electronics into the head of the hammer, print the solid head. You will need four 8mm in diameter by 205 mm in length, round aluminium (or other material) rods to attach the three head pieces together. There are obvious indications (A and B) as to which side of the hammerhead goes where. For the square sides of the hammer, you can choose between printing them with separate rune panels (if you have a small resin printer or prefer it this way) or directly with the runes embedded into the pieces. I suggest the latter. You will notice these files are oriented strangely, but believe me, with a bit of support, they turn out so much better than flat on the bed.

- Hollow head: if you want to improvise your own electronics, I suggest you build a foam module that inserts into the hammerhead and that you wrap it with your LEDs and other electronic components you want to add. You will need 10 mm in diameter by 3 mm in thickness round magnets to be able to have one of the sides (or both) open and close so you can reach your electronics. The magnets insert on the inside of the hammer pieces, so this way there is a physical wall between them and you do not need to worry about them being flush with the surface. If you want the pieces to hold together stronger, you can even stack up more magnets! This is one of the many advantages of working with magnets this way. To open the sides, spin them a bit. My advice is also that you drive the threaded rod through this foam module to secure it in place.

- Rest of the pieces of the hammer: if you’re using a FDM printer, print them following the orientation that I give you, even if the impact disc is vertical and tilted (use support, trust me it comes out much better).

- Printable tools: print these because they are going to help you so much during the build process. The stands are designed so you don’t have to touch the pieces when you apply your filler primers or clear coats or any paint. The rotary tools are incredibly useful along with a drill, to get the perfect turned steel effects. Watch my YouTube workshops that I did last year, to learn how to paint the hammer and to use these tools. They will make your life so much easier. Use the leather templates to trace directly onto leather or faux leather (1 mm thick).

All in all, these are state of the art files that deserve to be treated with care and love. They deserve your best paintwork! Show me your progress pictures on instagram (tag me).

As always, a little disclaimer. These files are for personal use only. You cannot share them in any way or sell printed kits or finished hammers. And of course this is not a physical product, so be mindful of this before making your purchase, because I will not refund it.

Happy printing!