Search results (tags) for: "how tuesday"

How-Tuesday: Pair of Bears From Felt Me a Smile

2010-02-09T16:01:00-05:00

One thing I always find worth celebrating is anything that merits a warm, cozy bear hug. Flipping through the pages of Felt Me a Smile by Toyoko Sugiwaka was an inspiring reminder to appreciate all that I hold near and dear, make time to dream up heartfelt handmade creations, and uncover the joy in the details of day-to-day life.

This week's needle felting How-Tuesday project might melt the hearts of even the most steadfast Valentine's Day cynics with instructions on how to make tiny bears locked in what Toyoko calls "the world's happiest posture."

Purchase Felt Me a Smile from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

Make something for someone with a feeling of warmheartedness — this will surely make you smile. That smile can hopefully be passed on to your "someone." Smiles are coming. If you smile, your mind opens automatically. If your mind is open, you will appreciate every little, good thing. Take care: the little things are easy to overlook in daily life.

Materials & Tools:

Natural grey and white wool roving
Felting needle
Sponge
Sewing needle and thread

Instructions:

1. Draw pieces of wool from the roving about 13 times and roll it between your palms to make a ball.

2. Hold the ball in your hand and poke the top with a felting needle until it is flat. Rotate the ball and continue for 15 minutes to get a small ball.

3. Roll the ball between your palms to make a longer shape.

4. Poke the felting needle around the ends of the shape to round them.

5. Poke the felting needle around the neckline to form the head and body. Hold the head firmly between your fingers and poke to create the shape.

6. Hold the body upside down and poke in a line across the end to divide into two legs.

7. Pull legs to make them longer. Hold leg between two fingers and poke in all directions to form the shape.

8. Stretch the body a little by pulling it with your fingers. Poke in a line across the neck and nose.

9. Make ears and arms, like this:

a. Draw a little grey wool from roving, hold one end and roll twice to create a small round shape.

b. Holding both free ends of the fibers, place the shape on the sponge and poke it in a circular pattern until it is flat. Turn it over and repeat.

c. Roll one end with your fingers to make it pointed. Continue poking until you have a triangle shape.

d. Leave about 3/8 inch of loose fibers for attaching to the head.

10. Attach ears and arms to head and body, as seen below. (Note: The photos for steps 10a through 10d are from the Fluffy Kitten project of Felt Me a Smile. That's why the critter looks more like a cat than a bear.)

a. Pick up a few fibers from the base of the head and the top of the body.

b. Hold the head and body together and use the felting needle to poke the fibers you picked up to the inside.

c. Spread out the unfelted wool at the end of the ears and limbs in a circle, and trim it back to 3/8 inch long.

d. Hold the limb in place and use the felting needle to poke the fibers into the body.

11. Take a little wool on your finger and poke it into place to create the nose and eyes.

12. Gently hold the body to make a curved back, then poke it. Sew each bear's hands to the other's body.

13. Pass needle through the body to the other side before cutting off the yearn. Squeeze bears together to shape.

Reprinted from the book Felt Me a Smile by Toyoko Sugiwaka, copyright 2010. Thanks to Toyoko and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | Needlecraft Category

How-Tuesday: Matchbox Valentines With Rachel Johnson

2010-02-02T15:00:00-05:00

Whenever I encounter paper lace, glitter, rosy patterned paper, and all the trappings of a classic handmade valentine, I am immediately transported back to my elementary school days. I would sit at the kitchen table with my mother, armed with a bottle of glue and a pair of scissors, and methodically and democratically (and sometimes against my will) make valentines for every kid in my class. Each little missive would be deposited in our custom crafted shoebox mailboxes at school the next day, surrounded by a group sugar buzz.

We had such a great time at Craft Night last night gluing and snipping that I decided to invite Rachel Johnson from Swap-bot back to share all her tips and tricks for constructing matchbox valentines for How-Tuesday this week. When Rachel shared her project idea with me, I knew I had met my crafting match! Read on for all the knowledge that you need to make a tiny gift that will surely help you ignite a Valentine's Day romance.

Altered matchboxes are small favors or gift boxes that can be decorated in any style or theme — including Valentine's Day! Some crafters decorate real, empty matchboxes, but if you don't have any of those handy you can create the little boxes from scratch using one of the free PDF Matchbox Templates available below. The small paper boxes can be decorated with patterned papers, ribbon, and other small embellishments, and filled with a Valentine's Day message or a small gift. Matchboxes are a popular item to swap on Swap-bot.com. If you are interested in trying out a matchbox swap, come join the February Love Matchbox Swap.

Supplies Needed:

Matchbox template (Download the traditional or envelope-style template below.)
Thick card stock and/or light cardboard, like a cereal box
Pencil
Scissors and/or craft knife
Bone folder or other scoring instrument
Ruler
Glue
Decorative papers and other embellishments for decorating your Valentine box
Optional: printed matchbox enclosures cards template to create cards and booklets to go inside your matchbox

Download Traditional Matchbox Template here.

Download Envelope-Style Matchbox Template here.

Matchbox Instructions:

1. Print out template at 100%. Do not use the “fit to paper size” option in your printer settings or your matchbox will not be the correct size. You can print the template directly on the card stock you will use to create your matchbox, or you can print it on scratch paper and then trace it on a light cardboard or other stiff paper.

2. Cut along all black lines, score and fold along all gray lines.

3. Apply glue to the light gray areas of the inside drawer.

4. Fold the sides of the inside drawer in on themselves (they will be end up being double thick) while tucking the tabs into the folds of the shorter sides of the drawer.

5a. For the traditional-style matchbox: Fold the outside wrap around the inside drawer to make sure it is the right size. Then, remove the inside drawer and glue the wrap in place.

5b. For the envelope-style matchbox: Fold the outside wrap around the inside drawer while folding in its bottom and tucking in the tabs. (I suggest test folding the outer wrap around the inner drawer at first, then removing the inside drawer and doing the final fold with glue. This fold is a little tricky as you must tuck in the tabs and the final side.) Glue it in place. The flap on the right side of the outside wrap template is the matchbox’s envelope closure. Fold it over the top of the box and secure it with a seal or ribbon.

6. Decorate your matchbox! (Swap your matchbox creations on Swap-bot.com for added fun.)

Booklet Instructions:

With Valentine’s Day coming up, I wanted to create some little cards that can be slipped into these pretty, decorated matchboxes. Matchboxes make a sweet and inexpensive handmade gift — fill them with some candy and a little note and you are sure to put a smile on your loved one’s face!

I came up with three very easy card types that fit perfectly into the boxes created using either of the Matchbox Templates from above. On the Matchbox Enclosure Cards PDF you will find a simple folded card, an accordion-style card/booklet, and a more complicated 8-page folded booklet. Follow the steps below to create the folded booklet.

Download the Matchbox Enclosure Cards PDF here.

1. Print out the Matchbox Enclosure Cards sheet at 100% (not “fit to paper size”). You may want to print it on scratch paper first to try out the booklet fold or to trace the enclosure card shapes onto patterned paper. Or, you can print directly on a light card stock that matches the theme of your matchboxes. The folded and accordion cards are self-explanatory: simply cut along the black lines and score and fold at the gray lines. Do the same for the booklet template. Notice the cut line through part of the center of the booklet.

2. Fold booklet in half lengthwise.

3. This part gets a little tricky. Pull out the two center pages (on each side of the cut center area) at their folds to create two pages. The “spines” of page 6/5 and cover/2 will end up touching.

4. Fold the cover and back page around the other pages to create the booklet.

5. Press the folds using a bone folder or other tool.

6. Decorate your pages or write a little zine. Then, place your booklet inside you matchbox and give it to someone you love!

Thanks to Rachel Johnson and Swap-bot.com for sharing this project with us. For more projects and craft swap projects, check out Swap-bot.com.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | Paper Goods Category

How-Tuesday: Blue Ribbon Bourbon Ginger Pecan Pie

2010-01-26T13:11:00-05:00

New Year's resolution #1: Eat. More. Pie. After having the great honor to be on the panel of judges for the 1st Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake Off Benefit at Spacecraft and sample over thirty handmade pies, I realized that making and eating homemade pie is truly at the top of my personal priorities for the new year, and in life in general. Wild goals of skydiving or going to the gym every day aside, I think one resolution I can stick to this year is to make time for the sweet, slow things in life, like freshly baked pie, straight from the oven.

With its flaky crust, choice ingredients, and impeccable harmony of flavors, Allison Kave's Bourbon Ginger Pecan Pie was the winner of this year's contest! Allison (pictured below, with her boyfriend, Jay Horton, who won Best Sweet Pie for his Apple Cider Cream) was born in Albuquerque, New Mexico and grew up on Long Island. She has been working in the arts for years and is currently the studio manager for an artist. Baking and cooking are her favorite hobbies, and she hopes to someday make the transition into working with food professionally.

She has shared her winning recipe and few insights into her pie-making process with us below:

What was your inspiration for the pie? What do you think is the secret to creating a delicious pie?
I have been baking this pie for years. I'm a big bourbon drinker, which is a traditional pairing with pecans, but I also thought that ginger would add a nice spicy, herbal element to the overall flavor.

The crust has to be flaky and crisp, with no sogginess. I've learned that blind baking the crust first makes a big difference, especially with particularly juicy fruit pies. Also, a good balance of flavor, with a bit of salt to counteract all the sweetness, is important.

How long have you been a pie-maker? What was the first pie you ever baked?
I've been baking since I was a kid. My mother is a great cook and baker, and she actually opened up a chocolate shop a couple of years ago, called Roni-Sue's Chocolates in the Essex Market on the Lower East Side. I learned a lot from watching her. My brother Corwin and I were always encouraged to spend time in the kitchen. He's now the executive chef at Fatty Crab restaurant, so food definitely runs in the family! I don't have a clear memory of my first pie, but I'd guess it was probably an apple pie, as we often went apple picking in the fall during my childhood.

What meal would you pair with this pie?
It's a very autumnal pie — I first made it for Thanksgiving dinner years ago, so I know from experience that it pairs nicely with roasted turkey and brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, etc. The ginger in the pie lends itself to a whole different kind of interpretation, however, and I could see someone starting things off with a Thai curry or something similarly spicy and Asian-influenced.

So, for those of you looking to satisfy your sweet tooth and try a new recipe in the new year, read on for a real treat from the winner of the 1st Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake Off Benefit.

Photo by Talisa Chang from the Greenpoint Gazette

Recipe for Bourbon Ginger Pecan Pie by Allison Kave

You'll Need:
Crust — makes enough for 1 single 9-inch crust:

3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cake flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, diced and chilled
2 tablespoons lard, chilled*
1/2 teaspoon white vinegar*
1/4 cup very cold water
approximately 1/4 cup crystallized ginger, finely chopped

Filling:
1 cup light brown sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup maple syrup
3 large eggs, beaten
2 cups pecans, lightly toasted
2-3 tablespoons good bourbon
a pinch of salt
1 teaspoon ground dried ginger
approximately 2 teaspoons (about a 2-inch piece) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated (a microplane is great for this)

Tip: If you do not want to use lard (although I recommend it as it makes an amazing crust), just replace it with butter and omit the white vinegar from the recipe. I'm not a fan of shortening, but you could substitute that if you want to. Also, leaf lard is really the best thing for pies, if you can find it. I buy it already rendered from my local farmer's market, and you can often find it frozen at good food markets.

Directions:
1. Make the crust. I use a food processor for this, and it turns out wonderfully, but you can cut the fat into the flour by hand if you don't have one. A pastry cutter or a couple of knives will do the trick.

In the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse the flours and salt just to combine. Add the butter, lard, and ginger, and pulse a few times to cut the fat into the flour. The mixture should resemble coarse crumbs. Combine the vinegar (if using) with the cold water. With the processor running, pour the liquid down the feed tube all at once. As soon as the dough begins to form a ball around the blade, stop the machine. Lay a piece of plastic wrap on the counter and dump the dough onto it, scraping the bowl and blade with a spatula. Pat the dough into a ball, wrap lightly, and chill for at least an hour before using. Dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months.

After the dough has rested, lightly dust a clean work surface with flour, and roll out to a circle approximately 10 inches in diameter, and about 1/8" thick. Line a buttered pie plate with the dough, and trim the overhang to about 1/2 inch. Do not prick with a fork. Tuck the overhang under the edge between the pie plate and the crust, and make a nice decoration around the edge by pinching the dough between your thumb and forefinger. Return to the fridge to chill for another 20-30 minutes.

2. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line the crust with foil and fill with pie weights, dried beans, or dried rice, to help the crust hold its shape while baking. Bake for 12 minutes, then remove the weights and foil, and return to the oven for 10 more minutes, until the crust begins to brown lightly. Remove from the oven and cool before filling. If the crust has bubbled up at all on the bottom don't worry, just lightly press down any bubbles.

3. Turn the oven down to 350 degrees. While the crust cools, make the filling. In a mixing bowl, stir together the sugar and the melted butter. Add the maple syrup, eggs, pecans (toast these lightly first for best flavor), bourbon, salt, and both gingers, and stir until all ingredients are combined. Pour mixture into cooled pie crust, and bake for approx 25-35 minutes, or until the pie is set. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack. The pie can be frozen after it has cooled. To do so, wrap it well in plastic and then foil, and leave it out at room temperature for a few hours to defrost.

Thanks to Allison Kave for sharing this delicious recipe with us! For more home-cooking inspiration, be sure to check out the links below.

Food on the Etsy Blog | Plants and Edibles Category

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How-Tuesday: Swing Cardigan From Haiku Knits

2010-01-12T14:34:00-05:00

Stumbling through brutal wind tunnels on my trek at the end of an evening, hair frozen and fingertips blue, I must remind myself to escape to a mental place of otherness, a realm of zen that will bring me home. Tanya Alpert's Haiku Knits is filled with sweaters and shawls that would wrap me not only in cozy fibers, but a peaceful state of mind as well. Tanya takes inspiration from Japanese aesthetics, creating patterns for meditative elements of nature, from lingering snow to fading light. For this week's How-Tuesday, Tanya shares a raglan swing cardigan that evokes the shape of a bird's wing. I feel calmer already.

Purchase Haiku Knits from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Three years ago, my love of knitting and my desire to share this passion inspired me to open Knitting by the Beach. I wanted to create an environment where people could come together to explore and share in one another's creativity, and to enjoy the therapeutic aspects of knitting. As my clientele grew and I began to get to know my customers more personally, I realized that designing for them was my calling. Many of these women have discriminating taste and a distinctive, sophisticated style. Creating wearable designs that would appeal to them became my goal.

I was especially intrigued by Japanese yarns with their unique textures and understated beauty. I began mixing them with more traditional yarns to create new designs, while incorporating some of the elements of Japanese aesthetics. Two of the main tenets of Japanese aesthetics are economy in the use of space and materials, and asymmetry. As in a haiku, in the expression of emotion and thought, an economical use of space and time seems especially appropriate today. As for asymmetry, it suggests fluidity and motion. Bridging elements of Japanese aesthetics with our Western fashion was very exciting to me and became the genesis for Haiku Knits.

The combination of different textures, twisted cables, decorative seams, and asymmetric shapes, was inspired by traditional wabi (beauty that is incomplete) and sabi (beauty that comes with age), where imperfections are celebrated. The shape of each design brings the Japanese reverence for fabric to the Western ideal of clothes that are cut and shaped to the body: They focus on the coexistence of the knitted fabric and the body. Feminine without being frilly and minimalist without being severe, these patterns are perfectly suited to our modern lifestyle. The twenty-five designs featured in Haiku Knits celebrate originality, simplicity, sophisticated color, and comfortable fit.

I've always loved the shape of a bird's wing, but it's difficult to incorporate that distinctive form into an everyday garment without verging on costume. That challenge inspired me to update a traditional raglan sweater by essentially merging it with a wrap, to create an elegant A-line silhouette with fly-away three-quarter sleeves. For the shaping, I used alternating right- and left-slanting decreases, which produce a surface texture that recalls the feather pattern of a bird's wing. The outside raglan seams add an interesting decorative touch. The garment is loose-fitting, which makes it easily adaptable to a variety of sizes.

Skill Level
Easy

Sizes
Small (Medium, Large). Instructions are for smallest size, with changes for other size noted in parentheses as necessary.

Finished Measurements
Bust (buttoned): 32-34 (36-38, 40-42)"
Total length: 18 (19, 20)"

Materials
Berroco Pure Merino (4/medium weight; 100% extra fine merino; 1 3/4 oz/50g; 92 yds/84m): 11 (12,13) balls of Aubergine #8522
One each of sizes 7 and 9 (4.5 and 5.5mm) 24" long circular needles. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Five stitch holders
Stitch markers
Row counter
Tapestry needle
Two 5/8" decorative buttons
One 1/2" flat button
Size B (2.25mm) crochet hook

Gauge
18 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles
To save time, take time to check gauge.

Stitch Patterns
Garter Stitch
Pattern Row: Knit across. Repeat Patt Row.

Stockinette Stitch (St st)
Row 1 (RS): Knit across. Row 2 (WS): Purl across. Repeat Rows 1 and 2.

Special Decrease Stitches
Right-Slanting Decrease (RD): Knit 2 sts, place them back onto the left needle, pass the third stitch from left needle over the 2 sts already knit.
Place the 2 knit sts back onto the right needle.

Left-Slanting Decrease (LD): Slip 1 stitch as if to P, knit the following 2 sts, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted stitches.

Back

With larger needles, CO 102 (106, 112) sts. Knit 9 rows in Garter st. These 9 rows become the bottom band of the cardigan.

Row 1 (WS): Beg St st patt, starting with a purl row. Work a total of 5 rows, ending with a WS row.

Row 6 (Set up Decrease Row) (RS): K9 (9, 10), pm (place marker), RD, k18 (19, 20), pm, RD, k36 (38, 40), LD, pm, k18 (19, 20), LD, pm, k9 (9, 10)

Rows 7-11: Work a total of 5 rows in St st, starting and ending with a purl (WS) row.

Row 12: (Decrease Row) (RS): K9 (9, 10), slip marker (sl m), RD, knit to the next marker, sl m, RD, knit to 3 sts before the next marker, LD, sl m, k9 (9, 10).

Continue in St st working a Decrease row (as row 12) every 6th row 15 (16, 17) more times, and at the same time beginning armhole shaping.

Armhole Shaping

BO 4 sts at the beg of the 6th Decrease Row, and at the beg of the foll row.

Continue with RD and LD on every 6th row until a total of 17 (18, 19) decrease rows are made.

Place rem 25 (27, 28) sts on st holder.

Left Front

With larger needles CO 63 (67, 70) sts. Knit 9 rows in Garter St. THese 9 rows become the bottom left front band.

Row 1 (WS): K12 (13, 14) (front band sts), purl to last st.

Row 2 (RS): Knit across.

Row 3-5: Repeat rows 1 and 2 ending with WS row.

Row 6 (Set up Decrease Row) (RS): K9 (10, 11), pm, RD, k18 (19, 20), pm, RD, k18 (19, 20), pm, k12 (13, 14).

Row 7 (and every WS row): K12 (13, 14), purl to the end.

Continue Decrease Rows on every 6th row 15 (16, 17) more times as follows: K9 (10, 11) sts, sl m, RD, knit to next marker, sl m, RD, knit to next marker, sl m, k12 (13, 14), and at the same time begin armhole shaping.

Armhole Shaping

BO 4 sts at the beginning of the 6th Decrease Row. Continue with RD decreases until a total of 17 (18, 19) decrease rows have been completed. Place rem 25 (27, 28) sts on st holder.

Right Front

With larger needles CO 63 (67, 70) sts. Knit 9 rows in Garter St. These 9 rows form the bottom right ront band.

Row 1 (WS): Purl to last 12 (13, 14) sts, k12 (13, 14) (front band sts).

Row 2 (RS): Knit across.

Rows 3-5: Repeat rows 1 and 2, ending with WS row. Work rest of Right Front as Left Front except reverse all shaping, and use LD instead of RD.

Sleeves (make 2)

With larger needles CO 84 (90, 96) sts. Use a row counter in preparation for armhole bind off. Work in Garter sts for 9 rows. These 9 rows become the bottom band.

Rows 1-5: Working St st, begin with a P row and end with a WS row.

Row 6: (Set Up Decrease Row) (RS): K8 (9, 10), pm, RD, k14 (15, 16), pm, RD, k28 (30, 32), LD, pm, k14 (15, 16), LD, pm, k8 (9, 10).

Rows 7-15: Starting and ending with a WS (purl) row, resume St st.

Row 16 (Decrease Row) (WS): K8 (9, 10), sl m, RD, knit to the next marker, sl m, RD, knit to within 3 sts before next marker, LD, sl m, k8 (9, 10).

Work Decrease Rows every 8th row until a total of 13 (14, 15) Decrease Rows are completed. At the beginning of rows 50 and 51, BO 4 sts for underarm. Place rem 24 (26, 28) sts on st holder.

Seaming

With the wrong sides of a sleeve and the Right Front held together, sew the raglan edges together one stitch in from the finished edge. This will create a decorative seam on the outside of the garment. Continue to seam the other raglan sleeve edges to the Back and Left Front in the same manner.

Sew the two side seams and the two sleeve seams using a regular mattress stitch for a traditional seam on the inside of the garment.

Collar

Row 1 (WS): With smaller needles and WS facing you, knit the sts from the st holders in the following order. Begin with the Left Front, then Left Sleeve, Back, Right Sleeve, and Right Front. Knit the last st of each section together with the first st of the next section until all stitch holders have been removed. 119 (129, 136) sts

Row 2 (RS): Cast on 12 more sts onto your left needle.

Rows 3-7: Work in Garter st patt.

Row 8 (Buttonhole Row) (RS): K4, bind off 3 sts, Knit to end.

Row 9 (WS): Knit to 3 bound off sts, CO 3 sts, k4. Continue working in Garter st for 6 more rows.

Rows 16 and 17: Repeat Row 8 (Buttonhole Row) and Row 9.

Rows 18-24: Work in Garter st. BO.

Finishing

To make a loop for a hidden button that will be sewn on the inside of the right side: With size B (2.25mm) crochet hook, chain 8 sts. Secure this bar to the center of the left front edge of the collar.

Sew the 1/2" flat button approximately 6" from the right buttonhole edge of collar, placing it in the center of the collar on the wrong side.

Approximately 5" from the left front collar edge sew in place the two 5/8" decorative buttons to match the buttonholes.

Thanks to Tanya Alpert and the good folks at Watson-Guptill Publications for sharing this project with us. For more Japanese-inspired weaving, check out Haiku Knits.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | Knitting Category

How-Tuesday: ATF Gingerbread From All Cakes Considered

2009-12-22T15:00:00-05:00

I just do not believe that anyone gains weight during the holidays. This is prime time for indulgence, and thus I will stuff my face without a trace of second thoughts. After one fateful holiday in Mount Vernon, Melissa Gray (self-professed "NPR Cake Lady") embarked on a confectionery mission, bringing in a new cake to the office of All Things Considered every week, avoiding box mixes, canned frosting, margarine, low-fat sour cream, and sugar replacements. The result is All Cakes Considered, a national tour of gateaux that gets me fantasizing about dessert with Ira Glass. For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing Melissa's gingerbread recipe; dark beer and crystallized ginger would lure me to any Christmas party, even if I'd have to suffer through a carol or two.

Purchase All Cakes Considered from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

Every Monday, I bring in a cake for my colleagues at NPR, a.k.a., National Public Radio. Why Monday? Because no matter how much you love your job, Monday is the day you look forward to the least. There's something about having cake at work that makes everybody happy, even the dieters who proclaim that you're doing this just to torture them. It's a communal thing and a sensory thing. A behavioral psychologist might say that it's using an object (sweet food) to stimulate pleasure receptors in the brain, thus building a powerful association in the subject's mind between work and pleasure.

I hate being analyzed by the likes of B.F. Skinner, so I'll just go Forrest Gumpian: "Momma says cake brings people together."

I don't know the real name of this recipe, but it's from my neighbor Jane Marshall. Her mom was a home economics instructor back in the '50s, so consequently, Jane knows a good recipe when she sees one. She jotted this down after watching Bon Appétit Catering in July 1985. While Jane's not a big fan of gingerbread, she loves this recipe. I call it ATF (as in the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives) because it's made with dark beer and crystallized ginger. Bite into one of those chunks of crystallized ginger, and you think your mouth might explode. And then you're addicted. This serves 8 to 10, depending on how many come back for seconds.

You'll Need
An 8-inch square or 9-inch round baking pan

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1 cup molasses
1 cup dark beer (see Tip)
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Dash of salt
1/2 cup crystallized ginger, broken into small chunks

Tip: That's roughly two-thirds of a bottle from a six-pack. Measure out the 1 cup and drink the rest of the bottle, not the rest of the six-pack. Remember: friends don't let friends bake drunk.

1. Center a rack and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spray the sides and bottom of pan with baking spray.

2. Cream the butter with the mixer on medium speed, add the brown sugar, and beat well.

3. Still at medium speed, add the egg, molasses, and dark beer all together. Beat well for 1 to 2 minutes.

4. In a separate bowl, dry whisk the flour, baking soda, ground cloves, ground cinnamon, and salt together. Add the batter in thirds, beating well after each addition.

5. Using a spatula, fold in the crystallized ginger.

6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick or thin knife inserted in the centers comes out clean.

Gingery Cream Cheese Frosting

Now, as you might suspect, ATF Gingerbread is a more aromatic and less sweet gingerbread than what you're used to. If you're one of those who needs the sweet and doesn't mind just a little more kick, I recommend this frosting, which I found in Sharing Our Best, a community cookbook project sponsored by the Gideon Sunday School Class of Providence Baptist Church, in Gloucester, Virginia. The recipe makes enough to heavily frost one 8- or 9-inch layer, or the top of a cake baked in a 10-inch tube pan.

You'll Need
3 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Cream the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla at medium speed. Add the confectioners' sugar gradually, add the ginger, and beat until smooth.

Thanks to Melissa Gray and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this recipe with us. For more addictive cakes, check out All Cakes Considered.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Plants and Edibles Category | The Home Chef Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Snowflake Gift Wrap with the NewNew Team

2009-12-17T17:00:00-05:00

YouTube | blip.tv | MP4 | Subscribe in iTunes

We published this how-to last year but we're bring it back up for your holiday preparations!

Etsy How-Tuesday presents Kari aka ikyoto and Stella aka lookcloselypress of The {NewNew} York Team. Today we're going to learn how to screenprint our own snowflake gift wrap for the holidays. Kari and Stella remind us that recycling paper bags is a great source for materials for this kind of project.

The snowflake screenprint graphic was designed by the NewNew Street Team with each individual snowflake from a different member of the team. To download the unique snowflake graphic for this project, check out their team blog. The following members contributed a design:

redbridge.etsy.com
pulpsushi.etsy.com
cakehouse.etsy.com
Jantar.etsy.com
mshoelace.etsy.com
AdornmentsNYC.etsy.com
ikyoto.etsy.com
lookcloselypress.etsy.com
Kimmchi.etsy.com
karensmonsters.etsy.com
citybitz.etsy.com
allenelaspina.etsy.com
bungaloe.etsy.com
mayluk.etsy.com
luckx4.etsy.com
cajajewelry.etsy.com
bshorr.etsy.com
lapistolera.etsy.com
linguanigra.etsy.com
Fubabee.etsy.com
wabisabibrooklyn.etsy.com
jdavisstudio.etsy.com
bluestitchbooks.etsy.com

For more of their work, simply search "newnewteam".

Materials Needed:

Silk Screen
Squeegee
Paper Bags / Junk Mail / Card Stock
Scissors
Ink Spreader / Spatula / Stirring Stick
Iron
Ironing Board
A flat protected surface (table with construction paper works just fine)

Steps for Making Screenprinted Gift Wrap:

Cut up your bags until they lay flat.
Iron the bags with the iron on a cotton setting with some steam.
Lay one bag on a flat protected surface (you can tape the edges down if you like).
- Place the screen over the bag.
- Have a friend hold the screen firmly in place.
- Use an ink spreader, spatula, or stirring stick to put some ink evenly along one edge of the screen.
- Using a squeegee firmly press down and pull the ink across the design holding the squeegee at a 45º angle.
- Carefully lift the screen, while holding the paper down to separate the two.
- Repeat swiftly until you notice the ink starting to gum in the screen at which point: rinse!

For more about burning your own screen to print with, check out this tutorial with Pete and Matt.

Watch more how-to videos and check out these how-to projects too!

How-Tuesday: Sweater Computer Cozy From Refashioned Bags

2009-12-15T10:46:00-05:00

When it comes to tech possessions, we all have to try a little harder to express our individuality. I carry around my computer, phone, and mp3 player, self-conscious of the fact that I am merely one in a sea of identical metallic cubes. I may not be able to customize my electronics quite the way I like, but boundless opportunity arises in their accessories. Why spend money on some uninspired plastic case made in a factory halfway across the world, when you can create your own upcycled masterpiece? This week's How-Tuesday comes from Faith and Justina Blakeney's Refashioned Bags, teaching us how to turn a sweater that's past its prime into a laptop's fuzzy best friend.

Purchase Refashioned Bags from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Recycling and reappopriating everyday items into designer accessories is fun, cheap, easy, and oh-so-eco!

But have no fear; you need not be a seamstress or a metalsmith to make it happen. This book, like recycling, is for everybody. With just a few basic tools and a spare afternoon, you'll be making everyday bags, utility bags, totes and shoppers, clutches, and other small bags for special occasions.

So it's time to get creative, clean out the closets, and discover what hidden treasures lie within. Your wardrobe, your wallet, and your planet will thank you.

We all have mini fashion disasters — buttons falling off of coats, stains, and worst of all, shrinking that fave old sweater in the wash. At the Compai Compound, we have learned to see these mishaps as windows of opportunity. So the next time your favorite wool sweater ends up in the wash, don't use it to clean your bathroom floor — hook your computer up with a new winter wardrobe!

Quick Tip: Make sure the sweater is made of at least 80 percent animal fiber (wool, alpaca, cashmere — you know, the good stuff), or it won't felt. Then machine wash your sweater in hot water and dry it on hot in the dryer.

You'll Need
1 old wool sweater
3 yards (2.7m) yarn
1 zipper, about 20" (51cm) long
Pins

Dimensions
16" x 10" (32cm x 25.5cm)

1. Wash your wool sweater on hot so that it shrinks and "felts." Dry your sweater.

2. If your sweater has a zipper or buttons that open the sweater in front, cut them off. If it does not, cut the front of the sweater open anyway.

3. Cut the sleeves of the sweater off.

4. Stitch both armholes closed.

5. As shown, fold the sweater on its side so that one of the stitched armholes lies center-front. Place your laptop computer onto the sweater. Mark the length of the computer with pins on the sweater. Cut the collar and the bottom off of the sweater so that the remaining piece is 1/2" (13mm) longer than the computer on each side.

6. Sew the top edges of the bag together with a clean finish.

7. Pin the zipper onto the open edge of the case, wrapping it around the open corner of the sweater. Stitch the zipper into place and then whipstitch any remaining openings closed if the zipper doesn't reach the bottom corner of the case.

8. The pom-poms on our design were originally part of the sweater that we used, but if you'd like to add pom-poms to your design, wrap the yarn in a figure 8 around your index finger and thumb, in small loops, about 70 times. Pull the looped figure 8 off your fingers, then wrap the yarn around the center of those loops several times, tie a knot. Cut the loops open and throw the pom-pom in the dryer. When the dry cycle is complete, tie the pom-pom to the hole in the zipper pull.

Thanks to Faith & Justina Blakeney and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more upcycling inspiration, check out Refashioned Bags.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | The Do-It-Yourselfer Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Felt Garlands With Littleloveblue

2009-12-11T13:32:00-05:00

YouTube | blip.tv | MP4 | Subscribe in iTunes

We're bringing this lovely project back from last year, because it's that time of the season! Can you smell pine in your living room yet?

[Originally published December 16, 2008.]

This week, Etsy How-Tuesday presents Cary Walker, a.k.a. littleloveblue. Cary shows us how to make a holly leaf and berry garland out of felt. This simple but elegant project makes a great gift or a holiday decorating project to do with family and friends.

Materials Needed:

Holly leaf pattern
- Download it here, or draw your own
Green wool felt (or felted wool from a sweater, etc. as long as it's fairly sturdy)
Red wool roving
Felting needles
Felting pad
Scissors
Pins
Thread (red for the berries, and a color to match your ribbon choice)
Sewing needle
Tape measure
Ribbon (at least 2 yards)
Small bells (optional)

Steps for Making Felt Garland

Cut out your leaf pattern from the paper.
Pin the pattern to your wool felt and cut out the leaf.
- Repeat this step until you have 12 leaves.
Pull off a small amount of wool roving and then roll it into a ball about the size of a berry.
Using a needle felting needle, poke the ball many times over a needle felting pad, until it holds together firmly in the shape of a berry.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have 18 berries in total.
Thread the red color thread onto a sewing needle and sew three of the berries together, leaving the needle and thread attached to the berries (for now).
Gather two holly leaves and overlap them slightly at the top. Take your red thread through the two layers of leaves, attaching the berries to them. Bring the thread back and forth through the each berry to secure them well.
- Try to come through the same place in the back of the leaves each time, to make it neater.
Knot the thread in the back of the leaves and cut the thread.
- Repeat steps 5-7 until you have 6 sets of leaves and berries.
Measure at least 2 yards of ribbon. Starting about 12 inches from one end of ribbon and using the thread that matches, sew a set of leaves and berries onto the front of the ribbon.
Continue attaching each set, about 8 inches apart on the ribbon, knotting and re-threading your thread and needle for each one.
Make a 2 inch loop at each of the ribbon and sew those in place as well. You can make more sets of leaves and berries, and use longer ribbon to make your garland as long as you like.
Hang your garland and enjoy!

Watch more how-to videos and check out these how-to projects too!

How-Tuesday: Gingerbread Man Puppets From Felting for Baby

2009-12-08T15:50:00-05:00

Craft projects provide ample opportunities to spend time with your family and build anticipation for the holiday in the weeks leading up to Christmas. The sound of slippered little feet scrambling down the stairs will be irresistible! Saori Yamazaki's Felting for Baby offers beautiful inspiration to create everything soft and warm your baby needs. For this week's How-Tuesday, Saori shares the fundamentals of felting three-dimensional forms along with her pattern for Gingerbread Man Puppets to get your baby's first Christmas started off just right.

Purchase Felting for Baby from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Felt work involves taking fluffy wool fibers and working with them until the fabric is just the way you like. The items you can make vary widely, and there's no limit to what you can do with your ideas: making cute accessories, practical bags, and items for everyday life.

Making something by hand for someone else is a lot of fun, but a special joy is found in making something for a tiny, tiny baby. For example, if you're making booties, you can't help thinking of the cute little feet that you are making them for, and you find yourself smiling. A regular population explosion has been happening among my friends in recent years, and even though I enjoy buying baby gifts in a store, most of the time, my friends expect something handmade. At times like that, I get excited about making something.

I'm confident that my friends are pleased with the warmth of fine handmade felt items. I'd like all of you to try your hand at making felt items, too, whether for an infant, for someone else, or even for yourself.

Getting Started

The basic principle behind felt work is taking fluffy, raw wool fibers and intertwining them to create a stable form. This process is the act of felting. Wet Felting: In this technique, you take a small amount of liquid detergent, add it to hot water (this mixture is referred to simply as hot, soapy water in this book), moisten the wool fibers with it, and push and rub the fibers into shape. The chemical properties and heat of the liquid detergent, and the vibration and friction from your hands, cause the wool fibers to entwine and mat evenly, resulting in a smooth, strong fabric. This efficient technique is appropriate for making sheets of felt or felt with a lot of volume.

Tools and Materials:
The main type of wool used in this book is known as roving, which is raw wool that has been cleaned, carded, and gathered into long strips.

Shallow Basin: A shallow basin or container of some kind is useful when making a sheet of felt as it helps to contain the water used in the felting process. Alternately, you can use the kitchen sink.

Hot, Soapy Water: Add 3 or 4 drops of dishwashing detergent to about 1 quart of hot water. Adjust the amount so that it will foam slightly when you apply it to the wool, and rub. The hotter the water is, the faster the felting process will occur. Lukewarm or cold water takes more time.

Watering Can: Use this to sprinkle the carded wool lightly with hot, soapy water so that it doesn't separate. A spray bottle also works.

Waterproof Pattern Paper: Make patterns for your projects from a material that will not lose its shape when wet. Plastic sheeting and bubble wrap work well, but you can use the coated cardboard from milk cartons, too.

Wooden Dowel: You can advance the felting process by wrapping the wool around a wooden dowel or rolling pin. The larger your project is, the thicker the rolling pin should be.

How to Make Bag-Shaped and Three-Dimensional Forms

1. Arrange Side A
Take about 1 ounce of wool and divide it into eight equal strands. Make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, on the pattern paper, using one strand of wool per layer. Even out the area, and spread out the wool so that it's a bit larger than the pattern area. (I refer to the front of the bag as side A and the back as side B.) Apply hot, soapy water to the two layers of wool and work it in thoroughly with your hands.

2. Work Side A
Turn the whole project over, along with the pattern paper. (If the piece is large, remove the pattern paper before turning it over and then replace it on the new top side.) If any of the fibers are sticking out, fold them over the pattern paper and work the edges and corners thoroughly.

3. Arrange Side B
Make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, on another piece of pattern paper, using one strand of wool per layer. Then place side B on top of side A, pattern papers together.

4. Work Side B
Work the surface of side B with hot, soapy water, then turn the whole project over again. Turn it gently to make sure that the part you worked doesn't come apart or tear away.

5. Make a Bag Shape
As in step 2, fold over any wool fibers that stick out. Repeat steps 1 through 4 on both sides so that both sides have four layers of wool each.

6. Continue Felting
Put plastic bags over both hands, and start rubbing the felt in circular motions around the center, first gently, and then with more force. You can increase the pressure by pressing with the very tips of your fingers. Be sure to work the edges and corners thoroughly.

7. Pinch Test
Pinch a bit of the surface to see whether the fibers are firmly intertwined. (Be sure to check both side A and side B.) If the fibers come lose or break off, then the felting process is incomplete; repeat step 6.

8. Cut an Opening
Use scissors to cut an opening on the side that will be the mouth of the bag. (You'll felt the cult in step 11 to strengthen it.)

9. Remove the Pattern Paper
Slide the pattern papers out. Because the felting process is not yet complete on the inside of the bag, hold the bag carefully so that the insides don't stick to each other.

10. Turn It Right Side Out
Turn the bag right side out, taking care not to tear or stretch any of the felted fibers.

11. Felt the Edges and Opening
Flatten out the side edges of the bag and carefully rub and work them so that they felt. Since the opening cut in step 8 may be weak, work it for a while so that it's straight and sturdy.

12. Roll Up All Sides From Four Directions
Use a wooden dowel to roll up both side A and side B from the top, bottom, right, and left. Each time you unroll the felt, smooth out the wrinkles. If it starts to dry out, apply a little more hot, soapy water. Repeat this step until the whole piece has shrunk evenly and to the desired dimensions.

13. Shape the Bottom
Fold the bottom so that it's like a paper grocery bag, and rub and work it to form and stabilize the shape. Do the same with both side A and side B.

14. Make It Three-Dimensional
Stand the bag up, insert your hand, and flatten the inside bottom. Consider the proportions of the entire bag as you carefully felt the interior sides, angles, and opening, so that no distorted or uneven surfaces remain.

15. Adjust the Opening
Adjust the opening so that the bag is a uniform height. Apply some more hot, soapy water to the cut edges of the opening and work it in.

16. Stabilize the Shape
Rinse the bag in lukewarm water and briefly run it through the spin cycle of a washing machine. Stabilize the shape by ironing it, using a towel to keep the bag's shape.

17. Finishing
Let the felt dry naturally, and you will end up with the main body of a bag.

Finished Size 5 1/2" x 9 1/2"

Materials:
Wool for the main body: Natural or camel, 1 ounce
Wool for the face and buttons: Brown, small amounts

Instructions:
1. Divide the wool for the main body into eight parts.

2. Cut out a piece of pattern paper (download pattern here). Felt four layers of wool on both sides of the pattern paper to make a bag shape.

3. Cut an opening across the bottom, remove the pattern paper, and turn the puppet right side out. (Carefully use a rod to turn the arms and neck inside out.) Felt the puppet by rolling it up from all sides until it reaches the size indicated in the diagram.

4. Rinse and spin the puppet, iron it, and let it dry naturally.

5. Put a sponge inside the puppet and use a needle to felt the face and buttons onto the puppet.

Thanks to Saori Yamazaki and the good folks at Trumpeter Publishing for sharing this project with us. For more sweet wool, check out Felting for Baby.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | The Do-It-Yourselfer Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Jam Jar Gift Toppers From A Rainbow of Stitches

2009-12-01T16:19:00-05:00

While most of my gifts for Hanukkah this year will be coming from Etsy, I still try to look for ways in which I can add my own handmade touch, whether it's in the gift wrap, cards, or embellishments. The encyclopedia of embroidered design, A Rainbow of Stitches, offers over a thousand motifs to inspire you to add personal details to your holiday gifts. For this week's How-Tuesday, the authors share the fundamentals of cross-stitch along with a PDF of holiday cheer motifs to get you in the mood. Besides the lovely jam jar toppers above, how else would you put these seasonal patterns to use? Leave your ideas in the comments below!

Purchase A Rainbow of Stitches from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

If you haven't tried embroidery or cross-stitch before, a quick look through this book will give you overwhelming proof that you can stitch on virtually anything made from fabric. More than eighty inspiring ideas for stitched embellishment are shown, from wearables and personal accessories to a variety of decorative items for every room in your home.

So dig through your closets and open your dresser drawers to find an item that needs a little extra "something," then take a trip to your local crafts or fabric store to get some basic supplies. A rainbow of stitches awaits!

Before You Begin

Before you start, make sure your fabric is well prepared so it won't fray as you're stitching it. You can either hem the edges with a large basting stitch, or simply apply fusible web strips around the fabric's perimeter. Keep in mind that the piece of fabric should always be larger than the pattern to be stitched.

Working With Fabric

Fold your fabric in four to find its center point. Make large basting stitches along both the horizontal and vertical folds to serve as guidelines as you stitch. Align the center point of your motif with the point where the two lines of stitching intersect. Remove these guidelines once you've finished embroidering your motif.

To help stitches stay even, use an emboridery hoop. Gently stretch your fabric on the hoop, making sure to reposition it frequently — or to remove it at the end of each stitching session — to avoid damaging its weave.

Working With Embroidery Floss

Two or three strands of six-strand cotton floss were used to stitch all of the projects shown in this book. Whenever you start a project, you'll find it helpful to make a sampler of stitches on the fabric you're planning to use to determine how many strands of floss you'll need. As a general rule, lower-count Aidas — a type of counted thread fabric that's traditionally used for cross-stitch projects — require more strands, while higher-count Aidas and linens need fewer. For example, most projects stitched on 14-count Aida require three strands of floss, while those stitched on a 28-count linen, which has a much tighter weave, would probably need just two strands, and even one might look fine.

Transferring Motifs

To transfer motifs to your fabric, use carbon transfer paper, which is specially made for embroidery and is available in several colors. Choose the one that works best with your fabric. For example, white transfer paper is best for dark fabrics, while blue or red work best on lighter ones.

Start by photocopying the motif, which you can enlarge or reduce to get it to just the right size. Trace the photocopied motif on a sheet of tracing paper, following its outline and making sure to include all its details. Prepare your fabric according to the instructions on the previous page, then iron it carefully before spreading it out on a flat surface, such as an ironing board or clean work table.

Place the transfer paper between the fabric and the tracing paper, making sure to put the colored side of the transfer paper face down. Keep the papers in place by pinning them to the fabric. With a hard pencil or a pen, carefully trace the motif, pressing down so that the entire image transfers properly. Once you've finished, separate the papers and fabric carefully to avoid smudging the fabric.

Starting and Ending Off

This method of starting and ending off avoids having to tie knots on the back of your piece. To begin, take about a yard of floss, using as many strands as you need for your project. Fold it in two, then thread the needle. Bring the needle up through the fabric, leaving the loop created by the folded floss at the back. Bring the needle back down to start your first stitch, passing it through the loop, then pull gently to lock in the thread. Once you're done stitching, slip your thread under your last three or four stitches.

Essential Stitches

Cross stitch method 1
Cross stitches are typically worked on counted-thread fabric. This method is especially useful for lines of cross stitch.

Come up through the fabric at point A, then go back down at point B, up at C, down at D. Come back up at E and, working in the opposite direction, go down at B to form an X.

Cross stitch method 2
This method can be used either for lines of cross stitch or to make individual stitches.

1. Come up at point A, go down at B, come back up at C, then down at D to form the first cross stitch.

2. Come back up at B, go down at E, come up at D, then go down at F to the second cross stitch.

Stem stitch
Stem stitches create a continuous yet slightly staggered line.

1. Bring the needle up at point A, then into B and up at C (midway between A and B). Note that thread should loop under the needle.

2. To make the next stitch, go down at D and come back up at E, above the previous stitch and midway along its length.

Download a PDF of holiday cheer motifs here.

Thanks to Agnès Delage-Calvet, Anne Sohier-Fournel, Muriel Brunet, Françoise Ritz, and the good folks at Watson-Guptill Publications for sharing this project with us. For more inspired stitching, check out A Rainbow of Stitches.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | The Do-It-Yourselfer Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Stuffing Recipe From The New Thanksgiving Table

2009-11-24T16:00:00-05:00

When it comes to the Thanksgiving feast, I reserve most of my plate for the stuffing. Savory, moist, and hearty, the irresistible mixture is my primary motivation for stumbling across the Turkey Trot's finish line.

Families tend to adhere to traditional Thanksgiving recipes for generations and generations, but I love the idea of incorporating regional flavors and techniques to truly reflect contemporary Americana. Diane Morgan's The New Thanksgiving Table introduces tapenades, ginger brines, and enchiladas to the standard fare. For this week's How-Tuesday, she shares her recipe for Linguiça Sausage Stuffing With Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions — my salivary glands have officially kicked into overdrive.

Purchase The New Thanksgiving Table from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Thanksgiving is the one day of the year when nine out of ten Americans sit down to a home-cooked meal, and that meal, according to one survey, almost always features turkey. Depending on where you live, however, that turkey is roasted, smoked, grilled, deep-fried, or turned into the elaborate Cajun specialty known as "turducken," in which a boned chicken is stuffed inside a boned duckling, which in turn is stuffed inside a boned turkey, along with stuffing, to boot! There are also regional preferences in seasonings: sage and garlic are perennial favorites in some parts of the country, while rosemary, paprika, and cloves seem to rule in the South.

The New Thanksgiving Table commemorates this quintessential American holiday with a spotlight on the regional specialties that make this vast land of ours so gastronomically amazing. While the classic Thanksgiving meal includes turkey, cranberries, pumpkins, and root vegetables, those same ingredients have been reinterpreted in myriad ways that reflect the diversity and breadth of twenty-first-century America.

Traditional cranberry compote, for example, may have Yankee roots, but it has metamorphosed into a cranberry salsa with onions and chiles in the Southwest. Or, the classic savory bread or rice dressings used to stuff turkey in the Northeast is often replaced with versions featuring crunchy, ebony-colored wild rice farther west in Minnesota, taking advantage of the native grain — actually a grass — of the region. In the Heartland, late-harvest corn is made into a pudding to accompany the holiday bird, whereas corn bread dressing and sweet potato spoon bread are served in the South. Along the Chesapeake Bay, a crab appetizer often starts the Thanksgiving feast, while along the Gulf Coast, pickled shrimp or oysters on the half shell whet the palate in anticipation of the holiday meal.

Here's wishing you a bountiful and peace-filled Thanksgiving — with a regional twist, of course!

Our culturally diverse nation may have strong Yankee roots that defined much of what we know as the traditional Thanksgiving meal, but recognizing and incorporating other wonderful ethnic foods into our harvest feast speaks to the spirit of the holiday. I couldn't resist using Portuguese linguiça sausage in this stuffing. The smoky, zesty sausage is a great match for roast or grill roasted turkey. Ask your local butcher or specialty-foods shop about availability, or order online from www.gasparssausage.com, a fourth-generation family-owned business.

Serves 12

5 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
10 cups unseasoned dried bread cubes
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 pound linguiça sausages
1 pound cremini mushrooms, wiped or brushed clean, stems trimmed, and quartered
1 bag (14 ounces) frozen pearl onions, thawed and blotted dry with paper towels
1 tablespoon sugar
2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
2 large ribs celery, chopped
1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a deep, 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 1 tablespoon of the butter.

Place the bread cubes in a very large bowl. In 10-inch sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and swirl to coat the pan. Add the sausages and cook, turning as needed, until nicely browned on all sides. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Drain all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Add the mushrooms to the pan and sauté, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add to the bowl with the bread cubes.

Return the pan to medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onions to the pan and sauté, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes until soft and lightly browned. Sprinkle the sugar over the onions and sauté, stirring constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes until the onions turn golden and the edges caramelize. Add to the bowl with the bread and mushrooms.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pan. Swirl to coat the pan and add the carrots and celery. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, thyme, sage, salt, and a few grinds of pepper and sauté for 1 minute longer. Add the vegetable-herb mixture to the bowl and stir to combine.

Cut the sausages into 1/4-inch rounds and add to the stuffing. Add the eggs and stock and mix well. Scoop the stuffing into the prepared pan and bake, uncovered, for about 1 hour until the top is lightly browned and crusty.

If you have room in your oven, bake the stuffing while the turkey is roasting. Otherwise, bake it beforehand and reheat it once the turkey is out.

Do ahead: The bread cubes can be prepared up to 3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. The sausages can be browned up to 1 day in advance; let cool, place in a covered container, and refrigerate. The mushrooms, onions, and vegetables can be sautéed along with the herbs up to 1 day in advance. Let the mixture cool completely and refrigerate in a covered container. Remove the sausages and vegetables from the refrigerator 2 hours before assembling the stuffing.

Thanks to Diane Morgan and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this recipe with us. For more mouth-watering Thanksgiving recipes, check out The New Thanksgiving Table.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Plants and Edibles Category | The Home Chef Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Rolling Balls From Magic Books & Paper Toys

2009-11-17T14:14:00-05:00

As a lover of both books and crafts, I have a very difficult time letting my coffee table volumes or National Geographic issues sit on the shelf for long before I'm ripping, cutting, folding, and gluing. Pages sticky with mod podge, my collection of paper transforms into a vault of materials and inspiration. Paper guru Esther K. Smith will be hosting Craft Night at the Etsy Labs next Monday, November 23. As a teaser, she shares her Rolling Balls project from Magic Books & Paper Toys for this week's How-Tuesday. This would make a great project (with or without the kids!) as you get ready to decorate for the holidays.

Purchase Magic Books & Paper Toys

Long before I ever thought of making books, I got a hexaflexagon in the mail from Dikko. Other men send flowers, jewelry, or chocolate, but he wooed me with paper. (It worked — we've been collaborating on art and our family for many years now.)

He had read about them in Martin Gardiner's math column in Scientific American and made one for a grad-school course at the University of Wisconsin. The flexagon was cool. I made them for a while — sent one to my mathematician cousin (he was not impressed) — and then forgot about them. Years later, teaching a class at Cooper Union called Instant Artist's Books, I found that hexaflexagon again and decided to include flexagons in my class. Then I got a photocopy of a page from a Victorian children's book that showed magic wallet construction. Those two forms were so easy and interesting that I built a curriculum around them. I developed my Magic Books & Paper Toys weekend workshop, which started at New York's Center for Book Arts. I've taught it at Long Island University, The San Francisco Center for the Book, and Penland School of Crafts.

When I began teaching design for CUNY, I used flexagons with my CUNY undergrads for design and color-theory problem solving. Since their designs split and reverse, they make an interesting design challenge. They also keep me amused.

I added flip books, strip animations, and spinners with wonderful results. One student rendered a paint can that sprays graffiti, another made a subway car with cut-out windows that show the stations changing.

I've seen flip books of fingernails growing, T-shirts changing designs, and all kinds of winking, blinking spinners. I wish I could see the cool things YOU make!

I've seen these made from holiday cards as ornaments, but they are also interesting books. And it's fun to roll them. You could even put a simple pop-up inside.

You Will Need
Heavy, foldable paper
Compass or round object (glass, bowl) to trace
Pencil
Scissors
Bone folder
Adhesive
Drawing and collage materials to embellish
Velco, magnets (optional)

1. Trace circles onto the paper using a compass, or trace a jar or small bowl. The heavier the paper, the fewer circles.

2. Cut the circles out with scissors or a knife.

3. Fold them in half and burnish.

4. Adhere the folded circles back to back, lining them up with care and burnishing until you have enough to create a full ball shape when you open up the ball.

5. Place Velcro or magnets on the covers so that the ball can stay open.

6. Roll your book to be sure it works.

7. Embellish with drawing, rubber stamps, or collage.

Rolling Faces: You can put whatever appeals to you on the pages of your rolling book. Faces can be fun. One student thought faces of politicians would be nice rolling away. Cut them from magazines or newspapers and collage.

Thanks to Esther K. Smith and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more paper inspiration, check out Magic Books & Paper Toys.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Miniature Stocking Ornament From Sweater Renewal

2009-11-10T14:30:00-05:00

As the season of bulky fibers descends upon us, I inevitably must clean out my sweater drawer for new finds. Pulling out fistfuls of thick wool, I mourn moth holes, shrunken sleeves, oil stains. The colorful knits, even flawed, nevertheless feel enduring, and thus when I came across Sharon Franco Rothschild's Sweater Renewal, I was already inspired. For this week's How-Tuesday, Sharon shares her wool felting technique, along with a template to make a cozy upcycled Christmas ornament. You could even enlarge the template to make a full-size Christmas stocking.

Purchase Sweater Renewal from Amazon or an independent bookseller

I am, always will be, a self-confessed sweater junkie. Whether I am designing, knitting, buying, felting, cutting, or wearing sweaters, I can never get enough of them. Sweaters provide comfort, warmth, and a certain sense of style.

We all have our favorites — some that make us feel fabulously stylish, some that make us feel incredibly comfortable, and those that offer a coziness and warmth that no other piece of clothing can compete with. As we collect and add sweaters to our wardrobes year after year, memories also attach themselves to each piece.

I will forever remember one of my all-time favorite sweaters, and its quick demise. I was sixteen years old, and the sweater (I can remember it like it was yesterday) was a pink mohair cardigan, the exact color of cotton candy. When I wore this sweater, I felt transformed. I felt grown up, stylish, even beautiful. But one of my father's first attempts to do the laundry for our family ended in disaster for this cherished piece of clothing. After some washing-machine agitation (in hot water, no less), my beautiful sweater shrank down to one-third its original size and was suddenly and completely unwearable. But my love affair with this sweater was not yet over. I kept it in my top dresser drawer, and every time I opened that drawer, I would look at my pink sweater and remember instantly how good it had made me feel. It was years before I could actually part with it. How I wish now that I had made something else out of it, something that I could have continued to use in my daily life, to remind me of my dad and the wonderful feeling that sweater had given me.

Fortunately, I have discovered that damaged sweaters, old sweaters, out-of-style sweaters, and sweaters that once belonged to a loved one can have a second life. So clean out your closets, start your washing machines, sharpen your scissors, and get ready to redesign, recycle, and renew your wool sweaters.

Miniature Stocking Ornament

It's never too soon to start thinking about the holidays. These tree ornaments are just waiting to be stuffed with tiny treasures and placed on your tree or above your fireplace. The stocking is made from a brightly colored mohair sweater.

Finished Measurements
3" (7.5cm) x 5 1/2" (14cm)

Materials
Yellow-green sweater made of mostly feltable fibers, at least 8 3/4" x 16 1/2" (22cm x 42cm)
Stocking template (download here) and tracing paper
Sewing needle and yellow thread
1 skein each Rowan Classic Cashsoft 4-ply yarn, 57% extra fine merino, 33% microfibre, 10% cashmere, 1.75 oz (50g), 197 yd (180m), in light brown and dark green, plus fuchsia for crochet flower (optional)
Crocheted fuschia five-petal flower (optional)
Four 10mm nugget beads, 3 amber, and 1 translucent white (2 amber beads and the white one are optional)
Small box of straight pins
DMC embroidery needle #5
Beadalon big eye beading needle 2 1/4" (5.5cm)
Tapestry needle
Size G-6 (4mm) crochet hook (optional)

Techniques
Washing and felting
Embroidery: Blanket stitch, running stitch
Crochet (optional): Silp stitch, chain stitch, single crochet, double crochet

Felt the Sweater

There are three methods for felting sweaters: in your washing machine, by hand in your sink or tub, or at your local dry cleaner. The washing-machine method is the easiest and fastest way to felt, especially if you are washing a whole sweater or blanket. If you are doing a small piece, such as a sock, hat, or a cut piece of a sweater, you may find the hand-washing method easier. If you do not want to deal with the actual washing and felting yourself, your local dry cleaner is a good alternative.

Washing-Machine Felting
1. There are two types of washing machines — top loaders and front loaders. Top loaders open at the top of the machine, and you put your clothes in a basket-like container that has a cylinder in the middle. Top loaders work best for sweater felting for two reasons. The first is that you can open the top at any time during the wash cycle and check your felting. The second is that the cylinder in the middle provides a lot of agitation, so your sweater will felt very quickly, often in one cycle.

Front loaders have a door that opens in the front of the machine, and they provide a much larger, more open space than a top loader. Once the wash cycle begins, the door automatically locks and cannot be opened until the cycle is finished. Because there is no spin basket in the front loader, there is less agitation. So with front loaders, I suggest that you begin any felting project using a very short cycle (hand-wash is best) and know that you may need to go through a few cycles before your sweater will felt the way you want it to.

How to Felt Using the Washing Machine

Place your item in a pillowcase. This will protect your piece and provide more friction (which is a good thing).
Select a very short cycle to begin. The hand-wash cycle is always a safe bet.
Set the water temperature to Warm.
Add about 1/4 cup (60ml) of Ivory liquid soap, or any dishwashing liquid with a low pH balance.
Select the shortest spin cycle and the gentlest wash cycle. Spinning the item for too long can distort the shape of the piece, but it needs to spin a little so all the water comes out.
Place the pillowcase with your item inside in the washing machine. Start your washing machine. Do not felt more than one piece at a time. After each cycle, take your piece out of the pillowcase and check to see if you need to wash it again.
When you have achieved the desired results, put your item in the dryer (still in the pillowcase). Run the dryer on a very low- or no-heat setting until the item is dry.

Make the Stocking

2. Trace and cut out the Stocking template (download here), enlarged at 200%. Pin the template onto the felted sweater and cut it out.

3. Pin right sides together. Machine-stitch around the sides of the stocking, using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance. Leave the top edge of the stocking open. Turn the stocking right-side out.

4. Turn under 1" (2.5cm) at the top of the stocking. Using light-brown yarn, the tapestry needle, and running stitch, stitch around the stocking to secure the top hem.

5. Blanket stitch around the machine-stitched edges of the stocking, using light-brown yarn and the tapestry needle.

Appliqué & Embroider

6. If desired, you may crochet a five-petal fuchsia flower.

Chain 4, leaving a tail 3" to 4" (7.5 - 10cm) long. Join with a slip stitch to form the loop. (Chain 3, single crochet 1 into the loop) 4 times. Chain 3. Using a slip stitch, join to the base of the first chain 3. You now have five petals. Fasten off, leaving a tail 3" to 4" (7.5 - 10cm) long.

Pin the crocheted flower in place on the front of the stocking. WIth the beading needle, sew an amber nugget bead in the center of the flower, simultaneously sewing the flower to the stocking front. Be careful not to sew the front of the stocking to the back while doing this. If you do not wish to use the crocheted flower, simply sew the amber bead to the front of the stocking at the same point where it would be if the flower were there.

Crochet Loop (Optional)

7. This loop will attach to the bead center of the flower, closing the stocking. Using dark-green yarn, join the yarn to the top center back of the stocking with a slip stitch. Chain 32, slip stitch into the 22nd chain to form the loop, work a single crochet in each chain from that point back to the edge of the stocking. Tie off the yarn and weave the end under the hem of the stocking.

Crochet Strap (Optional)

8. Using two strands of light-brown yarn held together, leave a 3 1/2" to 4" (9-10cm) tail and tie an overhand knot with the two strands used as one. Attach yarn to the upper left corner of stocking (on the heel side). Crochet a 7" (18cm) chain. Chain 10 beyond the 7" (18cm) point. Form these 10 chains into a loop and slip stitch to the end of the 7" (18cm) chained strap. Sew an amber nugget bead onto the upper right corner of the stocking (on the toe side). The chained strap will come over the stocking and attach to this bead by the loop. At the end of the strand of yarn you left as a tail at the beginning of the strap, tie an amber bead. Tie the white translucent bead at the end of the other yarn tail.

Thanks to Sharon Franco Rothschild and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more upcycling inspiration, check out Sweater Renewal.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Rose Petal Tee From Appliqué Your Way

2009-11-03T16:07:00-05:00

Picking through the scrap bins at fabric stores is my cherished scavenging adventure for texture and pattern. In every nook of my craft storage, strips of vibrant textiles bloom forth. When I find projects made for these sweet trims, I'm not only reinventing a T-shirt or a tote bag, I'm also creating something completely new out of my neglected bouquet of materials. Kayte Terry, who has shared many a resourceful embellishing how-to on The Storque, has come out with a new book, Appliqué Your Way. These projects will inspire you to root your way through not just your own pile of discarded cloth, but your neighbor's as well.

Purchase Appliqué Your Way from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

I came to appliqué through my love of fabric and patterns. I adore the contrast of rich velvet on linen or a sweet Liberty print mixed with tweed. My heart goes all aflutter when I score a stack of feed-sack fabrics on eBay or unearth a set of vintage Marimekko curtains at a flea market. Doing appliqué is a way for me to highlight these special fabrics in my work and to play with textures and colors.

The beauty of appliqué is that you can use small amounts of gorgeous fabric to make a statement. It's a great way to use scraps from your other sewing projects or to put old clothing or linens to new use. You can transform everyday clothing and household items into one-of-a-kind works of art with the addition of some simple appliqué. There's really nothing more satisfying than answering the question "Where did you get that?" with "I made it myself!"

While I love the comfort of a T-shirt, sometimes a basic tee just won't cut it. Romantic rose blooms and leaves, also made from T-shirts, gracefully trail down the neckline of this tee. A monochromatic palette makes this tee super sophisticated. Hit up your local thrift store for extra-large men's tees (they give you more fabric to work with) in different shades of one color.

Materials
Boatneck T-shirt
3 T-shirts in assorted shades complementary to the boatneck tee
Quilting ruler
Self-healing cutting mat
Rotary cutter
Pencil
Card stock
Tailor's chalk
Fabric scissors
Sewing machine and thread in complementary colors
Needle and thread in colors to match T-shirts
Straight pins

Make the Flowers and Leaves

1. Use a quilting ruler and work on a cutting mat using a rotary cutter to cut from the assorted T-shirts the following strips of fabric:
One 6" x 24"/15cm x 60cm
Five 3" x 14"/8cm x 36cm
Three 2" x 9"/5cm x 23cm
Note: You may have to sew a couple of strips together to get a 24"/60cm strip.

2. Trace about a dozen leaves onto the assorted T-shirts. Cut with fabric scissors. Mark simple leaf veins on the leaves with tailor's chalk.

3. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and sew veins on the leaves, backstitching at the beginning and end.

4. To make the flowers,
a. Thread a needle with a thread color that matches the T-shirt strip. Knot the thread end and set aside.
b. Fold a T-shirt strip in half lengthwise. Holding each end of the strip with your hands, with the folded edge at the top, fold the upper left corner down so that the raw side edge of the strip meets the bottom edge of the strip, forming a 45-degree angle. (See figure 1.)

c. Start rolling the first few inches of the left side of the strip to make the center of the rose. (See figure 2.) Sew through the bottom edges of the flower center to secure.

d. Fold the strip at a 45-degree angle next to the flower center and roll flower center onto the fold. (See figure 3.) Sew bottom edge to secure. Repeat folding the strip, rolling the flower onto fold, and stitching to secure, until there's no fabric left.

e. Tuck the final end of strip under the flower and sew to secure.
f. Repeat all the steps to form flowers from each T-shirt strip.

Assemble the T-Shirt

1. Lay the boatneck T-shirt out on a flat, clean surface. With the T-shirt facing you, pin the largest rose just slightly left of the center of the shirt. Pin two leaves below the rose. With a needle and thread, hand-stitch to the shirt to secure. Remove the pins.
2. Cluster four roses to the left of the large rose and accent with leaves as desired. Pin, hand-stitch to secure, and remove the pins.
3. Pin clusters of leaves trailing up the neckline of the T-shirt to cover the rest of the left side of the neckline. Hand-stitch to secure, then remove the pins.
4. Cluster four roses to the right of the T-shirt in a different formation than the one on the left and accent with leaves as desired. Pin, hand-stitch to secure, and remove the pins.
5. Pin clusters of leaves trailing up the neckline of the T-shirt to cover the rest of the right side of the neckline. Hand-stitch to secure, and then remove the pins.

Thanks to Kayte Terry and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this project with us. For more modern embellishments, check out Appliqué Your Way.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Gore-Fest 2009 3D Blood Spatter Effect

2009-10-27T14:00:00-05:00

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We are so excited to be collaborating with Meg, a.k.a. Enderby, of Threadbanger fame for this creepy-cute Halloween how-to! Horror movie buffs and fans of television's forensic blood splatter analyst (and serial killer) Dexter are sure to be inspired. Here's Meg with all the gory details...

This October, let's take on new and unique creepy Halloween decor instead of the same old orange and black motif. In today's How-Tuesday, Etsy and Threadbanger team up to create a 3-dimensional blood spatter effect. These murder scene recreations are blood-chilling decor, and they make a fun and interactive backdrop for your Halloween party's photo booth. This will surely creep you and your guests out and will go over quite well with the serial killers in attendance.

For this project you will need:

Red felt
Red yarn
A needle (with an eye large enough for the yarn)
Red tacks
Recycled cereal box or cardboard for the template
Pen, chalk and/or pins

Instructions

1. Sketch out the shape of your pool of blood and create a template. If you don't want to draw your own, click on the spatter image on the right to open the full size file in a new window. Right click to download.

2. Using the template as a guide, trace and cut out the pool of blood from your red felt.

3. Cut out 50-80 pieces of red yarn that measure 50 inches long, and tie two knots at one end of each piece. The number of pieces of yarn will be determined by the perimeter of your red felt.

4. One by one, thread and pull through each piece of yarn around the perimeter of the blood pool. The yarn pieces should be about 1 centimeter out from the edge, and 1 inch apart from each other. (Tip: We had a little bowl of water on hand to make threading the needle easier.)

5. Take red tacks, or flat-head metal tacks you painted red, and attach your piece to the wall making sure the edges are flat and that all of the yarn hangs loose.

6. Take the pieces of yarn, and pulling them taut, attach to an old microphone stand or tripod. You can use another piece of your red yarn to tie the pieces together and then to the stand. This acts as the point of contact of the wound that created the bloody scene. Stab away and enjoy!

To see more of Meg's DIY home decor projects, check out Decor It Yourself every Wednesday on Threadbanger.com.

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How-Tuesday: Spooky Shadow Puppets by Crankbunny

2009-10-21T16:30:00-05:00

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We're resurrecting this eerie project from last year — crankbunny's shadow puppets are still full of dark delight!

[Originally published October 28, 2008.]

This week on Etsy How-Tuesday, Norma, a.k.a. crankbunny, shows us how to make spooky shadow puppets for Hallow's Eve! MUAHAHAH! crankbunny, a talented animator and artist, often works with layers of paper in her projects. Her animated short, "Robot Gets Its Wings," won 2nd place in our Handmade Moment Contest (and garnered the prize of Community Favorite!).

Today's project is about dead guys and cemeteries! crankbunny has provided the templates for making her signature Gravestone Shadow Puppet and Dead Guy Shadow Puppet. You can use these templates, or come up with your own designs — either way you will most certainly have your own spooky Halloween shadow show.

Things you will need for the Gravestone Shadow Puppet:

Download the template and print it out: Gravestone Shadow Puppet Template
Scissors or Craft Knife (Exacto Art Knife)
Rod (can be bamboo skewer, chopsticks, thin wooden dowel, a stick — the longer, the better)
Tape or Glue (non-toxic please)
Stiff Paper (card stock, cardboard, chipboard, etc.)

How to make the Gravestone Shadow Puppet:

Transfer the puppet template onto stiff paper stock.
- Tip: Print out the template on regular paper, use spray adhesive or glue to adhere the print out onto the stiff paper stock.
Cut out the gravestone puppet using scissors and a craft knife. Remember to also cut out the white areas inside the gravestone puppet.
Attach one end of the rod to the dotted area on the gravestone template using glue or tape.
- Tip: Customize the gravestone shadow puppet by cutting away shapes from it.
By making a few of these, each customized and cut differently, you can make an entire cemetery scene.
Project the shadow puppet by shining a flashlight onto it in a dark room.

Things you will need for the Dead Guy Shadow Puppet:

Download the Dead Guy Shadow Puppet Template and print it out:
- Dead Guy Shadow Puppet Template (page 1)
- Dead Guy Shadow Puppet Template (page 2)
Scissors or Craft Knife (Exacto Art Knife)
Rod (can be bamboo skewer, chopsticks, thin wooden dowel, a stick — the longer, the better)
Tape or Glue (non-toxic please)
String (cotton warp, yarn)
2 Brads (paper fasteners)
Hole punch (regular or 1/8th if you want to get specific)
Drinking Straw
Stiff Paper (card stock, cardboard, chipboard, etc.)

How to make the Dead Guy Shadow Puppet:

Transfer the puppet template onto stiff paper stock.
- Tip: Print out the template on regular paper, use spray adhesive or glue to adhere the print out onto the paper stock.
Cut out the puppet parts using your cutting tools. Punch holes over the indicated circles with Xs. Use the punch and cutting tools to create your own eye shape on the puppet's head.
Attach one end of the rod to the dotted area on the puppet's body shape using glue or tape.
Cut a one inch (3cm) piece of straw. Align the end of the straw with the line found on the lower part of the puppet's body shape. Have it rest against the rod vertically and tape it down securely to the puppet.
Cut 2 pieces of string. Each should be 12" (32cm) in length. Tie the end of each string to the outer hole on each puppet arm.
Make a spacer out of some scrap paper. A spacer is basically a small square of cardboard/heavy paper with a wedge cut into its side.
Join the arms to the body of the puppet with a brad using the spacer. Match the arms by each letter, the uppercase letter part always over the lowercase part. Remove the spacer once the brads are fastened. This will make each joint loose.
Run each string through the top of the straw. Make a looped knot to join both strings together. When you pull the end of the strings, the arms should move up. When you release the strings, the arms should move back down.
- Tip: Customize the shadow puppet by cutting away and adding shapes to it. Adding fangs, horns, buck teeth, pirate hats, hooks, top hats, etc. to customize your puppet.
Project the shadow puppet by shining a flashlight onto it in a dark room.
Have a spooky Halloween!

See more how-to videos on Etsy!

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How-Tuesday: Headless Marie Antoinette Costume From Makezine

2009-10-20T14:00:00-05:00

Okay, people, it's crunch time. There is only one weekend left between now and Halloween, and if you've been a delinquent with purchasing your Gaga hairbows or spider wings, Makezine's got you covered. Today's How-Tuesday is a Headless Marie Antoinette Costume from Nicole Magne. I love how this ensemble is such a harmonious synthesis of sexy and undead. Once you've sculpted yourself a new blue bosom, those zombie-ninja-aliens will be clamoring to buy you your next O Positive cocktail. For more great Halloween DIY ideas, check out the Craftzine blog!

Purchase Makezine's Halloween Special Edition

If there's a holiday made for makers, it's Halloween. On this night, you can proudly wear your most bizarre creation around the neighborhood. Or invite neighbors to explore your elaborate, homemade house of horrors. To celebrate the maker spirit of Halloween, we created this special issue, a joint project from the editorial and design teams of MAKE and CRAFT.

Halloween can be as low-tech or high-tech as you want. You can make scary things in the kitchen or in front of the bathroom mirror. Use a sewing machine or tools in a machine shop. Put a monster puppet on your hand or on a pneumatic device. Turn lights on and off with simple switches or with microcontrollers. One piece of advice we've heard repeatedly: start with a single project one year, and then add another one the next year.

Remember, Halloween is the perfect occasion for out-of-the-box thinkers (especially if the box is a coffin). Halloween allows you to recycle and reuse anything, from clothing to electronics. So let your imagination run wild, and then get together with friends to bring these ideas to life. Halloween is what you make of it, or as Vincent Price once said, "It's as much fun to scare as to be scared."

By Nicole Magne

Everyone knows Halloween is a great opportunity to scare the crap out of your friends and look good doing it. My costume idea was inspired by the Marie Antoinette movie that came out a couple years ago. I found a bunch of great "headless" costumes online that used the basic technique I wanted. Being a fan of zombie flicks, I took this inspiration to the next level, aiming for gory realism.

Materials
TO SCULPT:
Sculpting clay
Plaster of Paris
Sealer and mold release agent for plaster mold (I used Universal Mold Release, and Super Seal sealer)
Urethane liquid flexible foam (I cast the costume bust with FlexFoam-iT X liquid foam)

TO CARVE:
Blue sheet foam insulation (If you'd rather carve, you can use this foam insulation from the hardware store and carve it with a hot wire)

Acrylic paints
Wooden dowels or other piping
Backpack
Fabric
Oversized dress
Long gloves
Cotton stuffing
Wire
Sewing machine

1. Sculpt the bust with clay. I decided to make the bust first, and to create the rest of the costume around it. A hunk of clay and several hours were spent sculpting a creepy, skinny torso with super-fake-looking boobs.

2. Turn the bust into foam. Next, I poured a 2-part plaster mold over the clay bust. Once the mold was removed, I coated the interior with a sealer and release agent, and poured in liquid urethane foam. Once the foam cured, I removed the plaster and was rewarded with a Nerf-like copy of the bust. (Instead of sculpting and casting, you can also carve the bust directly into plain blue sheet insulation foam.) To add a dead skin effect, use acrylic paints, because aerosols won't set.

3. Raise the bust. With my boyfriend Andy's help, I welded a rig to hold the bust above my head. But I suggest using wooden dowels, as they are lighter and cheaper. We used copper pipes because we already had them, and because welding is fun. Measure the dowels to start at the lower back and extend to just above the head. If it's too high, it will ruin the illusion because the arms will look too long — the key to this costume is proportion. We then put a stabilizer at the top — notice mine is slightly too low. I drilled a couple of holes in the foam, inserted the pipes, and poured in leftover foam for sturdiness. I used backpack straps to hold my rig in place. I cut everything off the backpack except for the straps and the back panel. Then I attached long, narrow pockets down the length of the backpack for the pipes to fit into. We salvaged straps with clips from the backpack and used them across the chest to pull the rig tight and vertical. Without that strapping, the whole rig would be completely unstable. I suggest adding a strap across the stomach as well.

4. Dress up Marie. My friend Temperance McDonald helped me with the sewing. I lucked out and got the main dress at the thrift store for $3. I put on the backpack and bust, and then we put the dress over it. We now knew where to cut out holes for my head and arms.

Next, we made the top skirt out of a large scrap of fabric for $15 — this created the illusion of a waist (really my neck). It's basically a cape, with a hole through the right side for my arm, which connects through to the lower half of the right sleeve. With my left arm hidden underneath the top skirt, and my right hand in plain view in a bloodied glove, I was free to use both hands whenever I needed.

The left arm was a fake — a wire skeleton wrapped in cotton batting, stuffed into a long glove sewn closed to the end of the sleeve. It was completely posable and was tacked into place once the costume was on. The shoulders and arm were stuffed with cotton to fill them out. Makeup, hair, and blood-red paint helped to finish the effect.

Although this costume may appear uncomfortable, I had excellent mobility. I could move my head, dance around, get into cars (headfirst), and have a great time. Variations on this costume could include The Corpse Bride in a wedding outfit or Lumberjack Who Cut Off His Head With a Chainsaw. Keep in mind that the shorter you are, the better this illusion will work — I'm 5'8", so the entire costume was over 6' high for me.

Looking for more gruesome glamor? Check out a copy of Makezine's Halloween Special Edition for a DIY Halloween extravaganza! Thanks to Nicole Magne and the good folks at Makezine for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

Halloween Costumes Guide | Halloween Category

How-Tuesday: Button-Down Shirt From Design-It-Yourself Clothes

2009-10-13T15:20:00-05:00

Trying on clothes in fitting rooms tends to be a less than inspiring experience. Puckering, pulling, shifting, and stretching — the garment quickly becomes an obstacle in itself. Cal Patch's book, Design-It-Yourself Clothes, is built on an inherently sensible premise: perfect fit comes from custom patterns. Cal's approach that every sewer deserves to empower herself through learning the craft of patternmaking, is both encouraging and liberating. Each project in this foundational manual builds upon the previous one, so a basic shirt turns into a jacket turns into a dress.

For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing the button-down shirt; I hope the skills you learn in creating this pattern will equip you for exploring the next frontier in your designs. Since this project is rich with information, I've included an excerpt below, but you can download the full how-to (for free!) as a PDF here.

Purchase Design-It-Yourself Clothes

Picture this: You're out shopping, maybe at your favorite vintage shop, maybe at a fancy designer boutique, and you see something familiar. Hmm. Where have you seen that dress before, you wonder. In a magazine? A movie? Oh wait, you remember! You've seen it in your dreams!

You try it on, and for a moment, you are enraptured: Life is complete! You will forevermore be the one envied at every party for what you are wearing. But then you do a reality check. The color, now that you are thinking clearly, doesn't suit you at all. The fabric is a little more synthetic than you'd like. The waist is actually too small, and wouldn't it be way dreamier with a wider, kimono-esque sleeve? And a different neckline? Not to mention longer, with more flare at the hemline, and some shirring at the bust? And again, you realize, this scenario is all too familiar: You know exactly what you want and you've got the sewing skills to pull it off, if only there weren't that one, teensy-weensy recurring problem: the pattern. Even the best seamstress needs one, but a pattern for the vision in your head just plain does not exist. Yet.

It's no secret that sewing is the new hot craft — more people are sewing now than ever before. Sooner or later, most stitchers want to tackle more advanced projects, namely clothing. This is where the trouble sets in. The problem isn't in the sewing, but in the pattern. Unfortunately, finding the perfect pattern for what you want to make can be anywhere from difficult to impossible. The sewing pattern industry, with a few noteworthy exceptions, doesn't seem to be quite in sync with the surge in modern sewers — sewers who want to make clothes that look like what they might buy at their favorite retailers.

The new generation of indie seamstresses is watching Project Runway, reading ReadyMade and Selvedge, and shopping at small boutiques selling one-offs by local designers. You know what you want to wear but can't always find it on a rack. You know how to sew but don't see patterns that resemble what you want to make. You do want to make a unique look based on your own personal taste, influences, and body type. And you need the freedom to create patterns as your taste evolves over time. What's an intrepid stitcher to do?

Well, the obvious answer is to learn how to make your own sewing patterns! Patternmaking is an age-old art form, which, at its core, is extremely simple. The clothing we currently wear tends to be relatively simple from a patternmaker's point of view. We don't wear finely tailored suits or dresses with princess seams, darts, and gussets. We wear simple knit tops, skirts, loose dresses, basic woven shirts, and pants. Their style tends to come from details, as opposed to dramatic or complicated cut and construction. Thus, it's quite possible to teach today's sewers how to make their own patterns. And this book does just that in a fun, concise volume for the modern girl.

There are other reasons, besides the lack of selection, to learn how to make patterns. For example, three little letters: F-I-T. Fit can make or break a look. Whether shopping for clothing or patterns, finding ones that fit is frequently a struggle. This is because clothing manufacturers can't possibly make clothes to fit every conceivable body height, width, shape, and every combination of those factors. So they aim for the middle ground and hope for the best. Commercial sewing patterns have the same problem, though they do offer the possibility of simple adjustments, like altering length or combining two sizes in different areas to approximate your body. But only building a pattern from scratch, around your own personal set of numbers, can ultimately result in a garment that fits like it was made for you. Because it was!

Basic Shirt

There's nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt. Whether it's a menswear-style button-down, a Western cowboy-inspired number, or a girly, ruffly blouse, woven shirts are infinitely versatile and wearable. Feel like making one? You've got lots of options for fabric: cotton shirtings, quilting prints, eyelet, voile, chambray, pinwale cord, really almost any light- to medium-weight woven will do!

Let's talk for just a minute about functional ease. Whereas a knit shirt can be exactly the same measurements as (or even smaller than) your body, woven shirts require a bit of breathing room. Because they don't stretch, woven fabrics can't move and bend with you the way knits do. So giving yourself a little space between your skin and the garment will allow you to reach, twist, laugh, and dance without fear of busting a stitch! Functional ease subsequently will be referred to as FE.

Measurements
Bust circumference + FE* (at the fullest point)
Waist circumference + FE*
Distance from HSP (High shoulder point) down to waist
Hip circumference + FE* (where you want the bottom of the shirt to be)
Length of shirt (HSP to hem)
Shoulder width + 1/4" FE**
Neck width**
Front neck drop
Sleeve length
Bicep circumference + 1/4" FE**
Wrist circumference + 1/4" FE**

*For each of these horizontal measurements, divide by four. These quarter measurements will be the ones you use for drafting the pattern. They will be referred to as quarter-bust, quarter-waist, and quarter-hip.

**Divide these measurements by two. These will be referred to as half-shoulder, half-neck, etc.

Determining your armhole measurement
When measuring the armhole of a garment, we usually just measure a straight line (even though the actual armhole is a curve) from the point where the shoulder seam intersects the sleeve, down to the point where the underarm seam meets the side seam. A standard armhole measurement for a medium-sized fitted T-shirt is about 7" to 7 1/2". To figure out what will be best for you, grab some favorite tops from your closet and measure the armholes. If they tend toward 6 1/2-7", go with 6 3/4", and likewise if they're bigger. Or if you know your shirts always feel as if they're pinching at the pits, or conversely if you usually feel as if you're swimming in them, add or subtract an inch accordingly. You'll fine-tune this once you make a muslin and try it on, so for now just take your best guess.

Determining your front neck drop and neck width
For this woven shirt we will be making a collar, and your neck drop and width will determine the placement of the seam where the collar is attached to the shirt. Therefore, the drop should be a fairly traditional placement, right at the base of your neck where your two clavicle bones meet. On me, that's at about 3 1/2" down from my high shoulder point (HSP). The width should be the distance between your two HSPs. On me, that's about 7". You can play around with more adventurous collars and seams when you've got a little more experience, but for now let's just keep it simple!

For the rest of this how-to, download the PDF here.

Looking for more patternmaking inspiration? Check out a copy of Design-It-Yourself Clothes to kick-start your new wardrobe. Thanks to Cal Patch and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

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How-Tuesdays: Bleeding Vampire Cupcakes

2009-10-09T10:30:00-05:00

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We're bringing this goodie back to the top. Last year's vampire cupcakes are totally not stale — still full of sweet blood. Mwahahahah!

[Originally published October 21, 2008.]

Welcome to Etsy How-Tuesday. This week, in preparation for Halloween, we bring you Alicia and Tracy of Sweet Tooth of the Tiger who show us how to make Bleeding Vampire Cupcakes!

Here are the steps for making Bleeding Vampire Cupcakes!

Bake a batch of vanilla cupcakes. We use the no-fail recipe for vanilla cupcakes by Julie Hasson from her book "125 Best Cupcake Recipes," but you can use your own favorite vanilla cupcake recipe or a box mix works fine also.
After cupcakes are cooled, use a pointed sharp knife to carefully cut a cone out of the center of the cupcake. Be sure to tilt your knife outwards so you create a cone shape.
Take the cone out and set it aside.
Open a jar or can of cherry pie filling and puree it in a blender or food processor.
Spoon pureed cherry pie filling into the center of the cone'd cupcakes.
Take the previously cut out cones and carefully cut the top off of them, setting the pointy part aside. Use the flat top part of the cone as a cap for the pie filling hole.
The bleeding cupcakes are now ready to be frosted! Use a white frosting, preferably a seven minute frosting (recipe below), which is made by combining egg whites and sugar over a double boiler. Or you can use a buttercream or a can of prepared white frosting.
Once cupcakes are frosted, dip a toothpick in the cherry pie filling (get a generous amount on the toothpick), and stab the cupcake near the edge. Dip the toothpick in the pie filling again and dribble some filling from out of the hole to make it look like a bleeding vampire bite. Do this twice.
Viola! Bleeding vampire cupcakes. When your guests bite into these yummy cherry-vanilla sweets, they will look like they're bleeding!

SPOOKY!

Easy Seven Minute Frosting

Ingredients:

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Preparation:
In large metal bowl, whisk together 1/3 cup water, sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt. Set bowl over pan of barely simmering water
and mix with handheld electric mixer at low speed. Gradually increase speed to high, beating until mixture holds stiff peaks, about 5 minutes.

Transfer bowl from pan to folded kitchen towel on counter and continue beating until mixture is cool and billowy, about 2 minutes more. Beat
in vanilla. (Frosting can be made 4 hours ahead and chilled, covered.)

(P.S. For you Twilight folks, we know your fangs will be biting into these cupcakes. Check out this post!)

Watch more how-to videos on Etsy!

How-Tuesday: Three Projects From the Blogosphere

2009-10-06T14:00:00-05:00

In true DIY fashion, Etsians know that craft expertise doesn't necessarily have to come from book deals or extensive degrees. Sharing the bliss of trying something new and learning tips along the way is ever-present in the Etsy community. This week's How-Tuesday is a sampling of some of the fresh tutorials Etsy members are exhibiting on their blogs, including reupholstering a thrift store sofa courtesy of jstephens13, vibrant watercolor portraits from SusanFaye, and delicate wire knot rings thanks to decors. What I love most about these how-to's is the emphatic encouragement and excitement throughout, sure to ignite your creative fire.

Loveseat Upholstery from jstephens13

An all furniture thrift store was recently introduced to my town. Being forever inspired by "old treasures made new," I immediately gravitated to the Vine Home Thrift. Having spent the last 20 years sewing, creating and designing smaller scale pieces of fashion, recently, I have been pushing for something more, something larger!

My first upholstery installation was an 80s headboard passed down from my parents years ago (a large half-moon shape with plenty of faux bois paneling). From there I covered many dining chairs, a headboard for my sons’ toddler bed...mostly 1-sided objects. When I found a sweet little loveseat on sale for $10 at my NEW FAVORITE STORE, I knew I had nothing to lose.

The emotion and therapy available in tearing a piece of furniture limb from limb is fantastic; stretching your chosen fabric tightly for a finished look can be breathtaking. Upholstery immediately grabbed me. Returning to the store and feeling a bit cocky, I sought the ugliest monstrosity in the store.

This photo tutorial will demonstrate upholstery techniques and furniture modification (once an enormous davenport/sleeper sofa, now a modern loveseat). Re-use what you can, seek new where needed, and in the end, curl up with a great book!

You can find my upholstery tutorial here.

Watercolor Portrait from SusanFaye

For me, watercolor painting is all about the luminosity, flow, and clarity of colors. I began flirting with watercolor during high school, took a class in college, and designed and marketed my first set of watercolor notecards shortly thereafter. Happiness ensued until a chance encounter with clay distracted me for the next 20 years as I became consumed with all things ceramic, porcelain and stoneware. Then carpal tunnel syndrome reared its ugly head. Clay and I were forced to part ways.

It was then that I took up again with my old flame, watercolor, and discovered true bliss. In addition to painting and selling traditional nature studies of flora and fauna, I also create whimsical custom Pet People portraits right here on Etsy in my shop. I have painted portraits of feline fanatics from across the U.S., plus cat ladies and lads in Canada, Great Britain, Greece, and Finland! You can see many of these portraits and read their stories on my daily blog.

As an occasional workshop instructor, I have discovered that watercolor is one of the most-feared mediums in the art world. Trust me when I tell you, it DOES NOT have to be so scary! I have put together a step-by-step tutorial on "How to Paint a Cat Lady and Lad" in a fun, illustrative style that I hope will inspire you to give it a try!

I cover a few watercolor basics such as materials, tools, and color mixing, then show simple techniques for creating an image by painting just one section or shape at a time, with a little blending and layering. Just remember to take your time, and if you goof up, IT'S ONLY PAPER! It's okay to try, try again as many times as you want to (as long as you remember to recycle all that paper)!

Important note: It is not cheating to trace, or to pencil in your lines first! (I once "got hell" from a student who had been taught at parochial school that tracing was CHEATING!) A real artist knows this simple rule of thumb: Try everything, and whatever works, just do it... and have FUN!

You can find my watercolor how-to here.

Wire Knot Ring from decors

Born and raised in the bustling suburb of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, I graduated from my adopted home of Melbourne, Australia, with a Bachelor's Degree in Computing. Starting with basic jewelry craft in December 2007, I quickly moved on to wire jewelry two weeks later and was instantly hooked. Thinking of a way to innovate, I realized that the art of Chinese knotting would introduce a certain je ne sais quoi to my creations, and thus began my fascination and passion for creation in this style and medium.

Amidst the encouragement that accompanied my first tutorial, though, there were some who felt that I should be writing tutorials in my mother tongue, on the narrow-minded pretext of there being a glut of tutorials for the English speaking audience.

I believe art should live naturally and be expressed as freely as breathing, which is why I continue to write and design as much as I can, in as many languages as I can. Wires taught me to be humble, and I give a short prayer of thanks each time they survive my designs.

You can find my wire knot ring tutorial here.

Do you include how-to's on your blog? Share in the comments below! Thanks to jstephens13, SusanFaye, and decors for these inspiring tutorials. I am grateful for how much I learn every day from the Etsy community!

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How-Tuesday: Frog Suit From Wacky Baby Knits

2009-09-29T15:00:00-05:00

Well, I'm not sure I really need to say anything once you've seen this baby in a frog suit. The cutie patootie inspires me not only to knit, but to reproduce. Since Halloween is only a month away, we picked this week's How-Tuesday according to our early childhood indoctrination program. Alison Jenkins' lovable and cuddly creations introduce your toddler to a lifetime of handmade costumes. You can download the project as a PDF here, or follow along below.

Alison's book, Wacky Baby Knits, has projects to suit any baby's style. With knitted mohawks, biker jackets, and monsters, I think I could find reasons year-round to play dress-up with the little ones. Can't get enough of the gleeful masquerade of children? Cast a vote for your favorite Etsy Halloween kids item here!

Purchase Wacky Baby Knits

One of the many joys of having babies is that you can dress them up in any way you choose. Sadly, this state of affairs is temporary: in a few short years they will have as many opinions about what they will and won't wear as you do. Try getting a three-year-old to wear a cute cow suit if he or she doesn't want to! Take full advantage of the opportunity while it lasts, using this book as your guide and inspiration.

This all-in-one outfit will keep baby snug as a bug — or amphibian — in a rug from head to toe, and the hood even has soft knitted frog eyes. Rows of knitted bobbles along the sleeves and hood add an irresistible tactile texture to the knit, but because the yarn used is very soft the bobbles won't feel lumpy against your baby's skin.

You Will Need
Pair of size 3 (3.25mm) needles
Pair of size 6 (4mm) needles
Size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle
5 (6:7) 2 oz (50g) balls light worsted knitting yarn in color A (green)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color B (white)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color C (black)
Tape measure
Stitch holders
Bodkin
17 small green buttons
Small amount of soft toy filling, approximately 1/2 oz (15g)

To Fit Sizes
0-3 months: chest 16 in (41cm)
3-6 months: chest 8 in (46cm)
6-12 months: chest 20 in (51cm)

Gauge
22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 in (10cm), mesured over stockinette stitch, using size 6 (4mm) needles

Special Abbreviation
mb — make bobble
Work to bobble position; purl into the next stitch, then knit into the same stitch. Repeat once more, then purl once. You will have made five extra stitches. Use the tip of the left-hand needle to pass the first four extra stitches over the last to form the looped bobble. Work to next bobble position, and repeat.

Back

LEGS (MAKE 2 ALIKE)
Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 16 (16:18) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm), ending with a rs row.
Increase row with ws facing: rib 4 (2:3), then *m 1, rib 1 st; rep from * to last 3 (2:2) sts, m 1, then rib to end. (26 [29:32] sts.)
Change to size 6 (4mm) needles, and cont in st st until work measures 8 (8 3/4:9 1/2) in [20 (22:24)cm] from cast-on edge, ending with a ws row.
Transfer sts to a stitch holder.

BODY
Join legs to form body: work across sts from one leg, then work sts held on stitch holder from the other leg.
Cont in st st on these 52 (58:64) sts until work measures 8 1/2 (9:9 1/2) in [22(23:24)cm] from the crotch join, ending with a ws row.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 (2:2) rows **, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until there are 18 (20:22) sts, ending with a ws row.
Leave sts on a stitch holder.

Front

Work as back to **.

DIVIDE FOR FRONT OPENING
With rs facing, begin raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st, knit 18 (21:24) sts, turn, and place the rem sts on a stitch holder. Work 1 row in st st. Cont dec 1 st at same end of next and every alt row until there are 11 (12:15) sts.
Work 1 row in st st.

NECKLINE SHAPING
With rs facing, dec 1 st, work to last 2 sts, dec 1 st. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 (4:5) rows, while continuing the raglan shaping at the armhole edge. There are now 5 (4:6) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge only on rs rows until 2 sts rem.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder:
Slip the sts for the right front from the stitch holder onto your needle, and rejoin col A.
Bind off the first 6 sts, then cont following pattern instructions to make the right front section, remembering to reverse the raglan and neckline shapings.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder.

Sleeve (make 2 alike)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 26 (29:31) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm) ending with a rs row.

INCREASE ROW WITH WS FACING
First size: rib 3, then *m 1, rib 3; rep from * to last 2 sts, inc 1 st, then rib to end. (34 sts.)
Second and third sizes: rib (3:4), *inc 1 st, rib 3; rep from * to last (2:3) sts, inc 1 st, rib to end.
There are now 34 (38:40) sts. Change to size 6 (4mm) needles and begin patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row (bobble row): with rs facing, work 4 (6:7) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 0 (2:3) sts, k0 (2:3).
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt.
Inc 1 st at both ends of 2nd (2nd:2nd) row, then at both ends of every foll 6th (10th:10th) row until you have 40 (44:48) sts. Work 5 (7:9) rows.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until 6 sts remain.
Leave rem 6 sts on stitch holder.

Hood

With rs facing, using size 6 (4mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 10 (12:14) sts up right front neck, k across sts on front and first sleeve stitch holders, across back neck work *k 1, m 1; rep from * to last st, k 1, k across sts on second sleeve and front stitch holders, then pick up and k10 (12:14) sts down left front neck. (71 [79:87] sts.)
Purl 1 row.
Cont in st st until hood measures 7 (7 1/2:8) in [18(19:20)cm], ending with a ws row, then bind off 22 (26:30) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
With rs facing, cont on rem sts and patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row: with rs facing, work 3 (3:4) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 4 (4:4) sts, mb, work to end.
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt for a further 4 1/4 (5 1/4:6) in [11 (13:15)cm], ending with a ws row.
Bind off all sts, and fasten off securely.
Using a bodkin and col A, join hood seams.

Button band and buttonhole band for front opening and hood

Using a size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle, pick up and knit 17 (19:19) sts along right front opening to neck, then 42 (46:50) sts along right side of hood to seam, 27 (27:27) sts across hood center front to other seam, 42 (46:50) sts down left side of hood, and 17 (19:19) sts along left front opening.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 3 sts, *ym, k2tog, rib 4; rep from * another 2 times, then rib to end.
Rib for 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Button band and buttonhold band for leg opening

BUTTON BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of back to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the left leg then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch to the edge of the right ankle rib. Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 7 rows, then bind off all sts in rib and fasten off securely.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of front to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the right leg, then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch down to the edge of the left ankle rib. Work in rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 4, *ym, k2tog, rib 5 (6:7); 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Eyes and eyelids (make 2 of each)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A for eyelids (col B for eyes), cast on 18 (24:30) sts. Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (10:12) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through the rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Nostrils (make 2)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 15 (18:21) sts.
Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (8:10) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Sewing together

Join raglan, sleeve and side seams. Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse.
Overlap the bands and sew the lower edges to the bound-off edge at the center front opening.
Sew buttons onto lower left front side of button band to correspond with buttonholes.

SEWING TOGETHER EYES AND EYELIDS
Join eye seam, and stuff each with a small amount of toy filling. Sew the cast-on edges to the hood at the end of the seam near the crown. Take an eyelid, and wrap it around the back part of the eye, so that the cast-on edge forms the lid around the eye. Sew the other edge to the hood around the base of the eye.

SEWING TOGETHER NOSTRILS
The cast-on edge represents the opening of each nostril; sew the other edge to the hood close to the seams at the front.
Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse. Finally, use a small amount of yarn in col C to make large stitches at the front of each eyeball to represent pupils.

Looking for more knitted baby costumes? Check out a copy of Wacky Baby Knits for the cutest inspiration you'll ever need. Thanks to Alison Jenkins and the good folks at Perigee for sharing this project with us.

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How-Tuesday: Like-New Shoes From Crochet Adorned

2009-09-22T16:00:00-05:00

When my fingertips begin to get antsy, overambition tends to get the best of me. Weeks and weeks later I end up with a bag of abandoned crochet squares in my closet, yet no afghan under which to cuddle and drink hot tea. Linda Permann's book, Crochet Adorned, is a bounty of pretty crochet projects that prove crafting satisfaction is attainable for all! With cheerful ideas to spruce up old cardigans, tote bags, and aprons, this autumn will be the season to refashion, renew, and renovate. For this week's How-Tuesday, Linda answers some of our questions on inspiration and design, and shares her Like-New Shoes project for those extra bits of handspun yarn you've been saving in your basket.

Purchase Crochet Adorned

There is something so simple about sitting down with a hook, some yarn, and an idea. And yet the thought of making something to wear can be so intimidating! Notions of shaping stitches to fit your body, making sure you have the precise gauge, and wondering if you even measured yourself correctly in the first place can turn off beginners — and plenty of more experienced crafters! — from making crocheted garments.

Last summer I started thinking about ways to incorporate crochet into my wardrobe that took away the intimidation factor. I kept seeing crochet details in fashion and thinking, "I could do that... better." There's something about having a hand in making your garments that gives them longevity — for me, no store-bought piece can compete. So I started to design embellishment projects from simple trims to vintage-inspired, motif-based yokes and collars, and from there, this book was born. I hope you find the projects quick to work, inexpensive, and fun to make.

Interview With Author Linda Permann

Please introduce yourself and tell us what you do.
My name is Linda Permann and I'm a crochet and craft designer and writer. I design crochet patterns and craft projects, write articles on techniques, and write a crochet advice column for Crochet Today, among other things.

What draws you to crocheting and how did you get started with it?
I think I've just always liked to work with what I have and do things as I go, and crocheting lends itself to both of those practices. My grandma taught me to crochet when I was little but I really never went anywhere with it, and then in 2001 I went to the Knit Out and picked up some crochet pamphlets — no idea why I decided to do crochet instead, but there you have it. I mainly wanted to make some hats and scarves for myself and then I started making more for friends, coworkers, etc.

Where do you find inspiration for your creative process?
Everywhere! For this book I looked at a lot of fashion and ready-to-wear catalogs — not only at crocheted things, but knitted, sewn, machine produced, etc. I find a lot of inspiration by reading blogs and in real life attention to little details. I work at a yarn shop and I love seeing what people are making and touching all of the yarn. Yarn is probably the #1 thing that inspires me; even if I have a somewhat predetermined idea of what I want to make in my head, the yarn tells me the best way to make it.

What's next for you?
More writing, more crafting, and more crochet designing! Although I can't divulge the particulars, let's just say I don't see myself stopping anytime soon.

Is there anything else you would like to add?
Check out my blog at www.lindamade.com and, if you make something from or inspired by the book, please add it to my Crochet Adorned Flickr Group.

Like-New Shoes

Give your tired shoes a mini-makeover with these easy trims. They work up so quickly that you'll be able to coordinate a pair with every outfit. You'll only need a tiny bit of yarn for each shoe, so try working with odds and ends you have on hand.

Skill Level
Beginner

Finished Measurements
The completed Chain Stitch Trim measures 1/8" (3mm) wide; the length of the trim is determined by your shoe. One completed Ruffle Trim measures 3/4" (2cm) wide by 3 1/4" (8.5cm) long.

Materials
Yarn
Size D-3 (3.25mm) crochet hook (for ruffle trim) or size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook (for chain trim), or size to obtain gauge.
Yarn needle
Shoes to embellish (look for a pair that's easy to sew through)
Hand-sewing needle
Sewing thread to match yarn
Fabric glue (optional)

Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this project. Refer to the finished measurements, and make one ruffle or one length of chain to check gauge.

Ruffle Trim (Make 2)
With yarn A and a size D-3 (3.25mm) hook, ch 14.
Row 1 (WS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn — 13 sc.
Row 2 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), (3 dc, hdc) in first sc, *hdc in next sc (hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in next sc; repeat from * across.
Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Note: If you'd like a longer ruffle, work a longer foundation chain. Make sure to work a multiple of 2 chain stitches.

Attaching Ruffles
Sew one ruffle to the toe of each shoe. Use a sharp needle to sew the foundation chain loops to the front edge of the shoe opening, then tack some of the ruffles in place from the inside of the shoe. Knot off the thread and secure the end with a dab of fabric glue, if desired.

Chain Stitch Trim
Make two foundation chains, each about 1" (2.5cm) longer than the opening of your shoe. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends.

Place one end of the chain trim at the instep of the shoe and sew the trim around the entire edge. When you reach the beginning of the trim again, overlap the excess 1" (2.5cm) and securely sew the trim in place. You can also try gluing the trim in place, but be sure to test the glue first to make sure it won't discolor the shoe or yarn.

Looking for more ways to embellish with yarn? Check out a copy of Crochet Adorned for delightful inspiration. Thanks to Linda Permann and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

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How-Tuesday: Headboard From Wallpaper Projects (Giveaway too!)

2009-09-15T16:44:00-05:00

My favorite part of visiting historical homes is hands down, the wallpaper. Ornate, textural, colorful, geometric, gilded, florid — these are the kinds of patterns that transform a space into a realm. For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing a project from Wallpaper Projects, as well as general instructions for installing wallpaper yourself. In Derek and Lauren's book, innovating with this inspiring material to produce brooches, lampshades, medicine cabinets, and room dividers brings instant design to any element in your home. The Headboard how-to below is an easy way to customize your bedroom with the option to change it up every few years. And since even Marimekko has jumped on the wallpaper bandwagon, it's time to take paste into our own hands.

Do you use wallpaper in unusual ways? Comment on this post and you'll be eligible to win a free copy of the book, or pick one up for yourself here.

Why Wallpaper?
It's beautiful. Yes, this is certainly true. If you've spent any time browsing home decor books or magazines, or clicked around on any design blog worth its salt, you've undoubtedly noticed all the gorgeous contemporary and traditional wallpapers making their way back into the mainstream of interior design. Artists and designers of all stripes are not only rediscovering wallpaper, they're reinventing it. Aided by remarkable innovations in digital printing, design, and distribution, many manufacturers are exploding traditional expectations of what wallpaper can be, offering consumers all sorts of new and exciting options — from types of paper and ink to alternative eco-friendly materials to affordable custom designs.

It's versatile. Sure, paint is great, but it's got nothing on wallpaper. Even with 101 different shades of white to choose from, painting a room can only get you so far. Wallpaper, on the other hand, can (and will) completely transform a space. Depending on what pattern, motif, or colorway you choose, applying wallpaper to even just a single accent wall can make a room feel tall, wide, small, big, bright, dark, fun, serious, quiet, loud, funky, classic...whatever look or mood you're going for, there is a perfect paper out there for you.

It's easy and fun. Forget all your preconceived notions about wallpaper. It isn't messy, or hard to install. It's not some sort of interior design tattoo that you'll be stuck with forever. The papers and adhesives on the market today have made the whole process much safer and more forgiving, and the results more durable yet even easier to remove. If you make a good game plan and use the right tools, we bet you'll be pleasantly surprised at how easy wallpapering actually is.

It's great on and off the wall. Every wallpaper project is different, but one thing they all have in common is leftover scraps. With a bit of crafty ingenuity you can turn what would normally be inevitable waste into a unique opportunity to beautifully accent different areas in your home, create personalized stationery and accessories, revamp tired pieces of furniture, create frame-worthy works of art, make one-of-a-kind gifts...the options are endless. We've included more than 50 fun projects in this book to get your creative juices flowing.

Headboard

Since we've never found a headboard we were in love with, we spend an inordinate amount of time in the morning fluffing up our pillows to conceal as much of it as possible. Crafting one out of wallpaper opens up all kinds of possibilities: Not only can you play with colors and patterns, but you can cut out shapes as ornate or simple as you'd like.

Materials
Large piece of scrap paper for template
Wallpaper

Tools
Measuring tape
Pencil
Scissors
Blue painter's tape (optional)
Wallpaper paste
Brush or paint roller
Plastic float
Sponge

1. Measure the width of your bed and decide how tall you want the headboard.
Standard Bed Widths

Single: 39"
Double/Full: 54"
Queen: 60"
King: 76-78"
California King: 72"

2. To create a template, photocopy or trace our Headboard template or draw your own template design on scrap paper. To ensure symmetry, make the template for one half of the headboard and flip it over so that it mirrors itself when tracing out your design. You can download a PDF of the Headboard template here.

3. Cut out the template from the scrap paper with scissors, and trace the design onto your wallpaper of choice. If your design is wider than two sheets of wallpaper, you may need to align and piece three sheets together. We suggest lining up the seams and temporarily taping them into one piece with blue painter's tape before tracing and cutting out your design.

4. Cut out your wallpaper headboard, and apply the paper to your wall as you would normal sheets of wallpaper. See general instructions for applying wallpaper below.

Applying Paper to Your Walls

Two sets of hands are better than one when it comes to handling long expanses of wet paper, so it's a good idea to invite over a friendly helper.

Pasting
First, read the instructions that came with your paper. Different manufacturers may recommend different methods for installation. Prepasted papers, for example, just require a quick soak in water. But in general, the following instructions pertain to most situations. Cover your table with a plastic drop cloth and have all your tools within easy reach. Then, start pasting.

1. Lay your wallpaper strips on top of one another, pattern-side down, with the first piece on top of the pile. (When you spread the paste over the edges of the top piece, it'll go directly onto the back of the next piece, which means less mess and no wasted paste.)

2. Pour a nice, big glob of paste into a paint tray.

3. Use either a wallpaper brush or a paint roller to apply an even layer of paste to the entire back of the paper, working from the center out to the sides. It's especially important to make sure you get the edges, which will prevent your seams from showing. Because nobody wants their seams showing, right?

Booking
Once you have full paste coverage on your strip, it's time to book it. "Booking" your paper involves laying pasted sides together — which seems quite counterintuitive but ends up saving you space and ensuring better adhesion of your wallpaper. This process will allow the paste to activate and be properly absorbed by the paper. Rest assured, it will pull apart just fine.

1. With your first strip pasted-side up, grab one end and bring it toward the center of the strip, creating a very loose fold. Without creasing the paper, place the end down so the pasted sides are together.

2. Bring the other end toward the center and place it so that the cut lines are butting — thereby essentially folding your strip into thirds.

3. Now you can fold the strip onto itself a few times (no creases!) and set it aside while you paste up the next one. You can leave booked pieces in a plastic bag for up to half an hour without any problems. We generally paste and book 4 to 5 pieces at a time.

Hanging It Up
This is it. The moment of truth — applying the pasted paper to your wall. This is also when you discover wallpapering is much easier than you imagined it would be. The paper is totally manageable, the paste surprisingly forgiving... Congratulations, you are minutes away from enjoying a magically transformed room.

1. Use a level and a pencil to lightly mark a plumb (perfectly vertical) line on your wall where you want to put up the first piece of wallpaper.

2. Unfold the top half of your first pasted-and-booked strip and, beginning at the top of the wall, line its edge up with your plumb line.

3. As you line up the edge, press the paper against the wall and begin smoothing it down with your smoothing brush.

4. Once you reach the middle of the wall, unfold the bottom half of the paper and continue lining up the edge with the plumb line, smoothing as you go. You may notice a few small air bubbles, but don't panic — those will disappear as the paper dries. If there are a number of large air bubbles that are making you nervous, gently pull the paper away from the wall and smooth it down again.

5. With the paper in place, nice and straight, smooth the entire strip down with your brush, working from the center outwards.

6. Repeat the same smoothing process with your plastic float. This will spread the underlying paste evenly out toward the edge of the paper and press your seams flush to the wall.

7. Grab your second pasted strip and repeat steps 2 through 6. But instead of lining up the edge with the plumb line, you're now matching the pattern of the wallpaper.

8. Once you've got a few pieces up, gently wipe down the paper with a damp sponge, especially at the seams, to remove any paste that may have made its way out onto the front.

9. Continue pasting up your strips until you reach the end of the wall.

10. Place your 4" broad knife at the top of the wall where it intersects with the ceiling or molding. Carefully slide the blade of your utility knife along the edge of the broad knife to create a clean, straight cut. Continue cutting in this manner until you've reached the end of the strip. Snap yourself off a fresh blade and move onto the next strip.

11. Repeat the same cutting process along the bottom edge of the paper where it intersects with the floor or molding.

Do you use wallpaper in unusual ways? Comment on this post and you'll be eligible to win a free copy of the book, or pick one up for yourself here. Thanks to Derek Fagerstrom, Lauren Smith, and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this project with us.

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How-Tuesday: Pillow With Rosette Clusters From Felt Furnishings

2009-09-08T15:30:00-05:00

I haven't crafted with felt since I was little, but since picking up a copy of Anne Kyrrö Quinn's book, Felt Furnishings, I have a whole new universe of respect for the material. Anne was encouraged to revisit felt by her tutor in her final year studying Textile Design at London Metropolitan University, and she hasn't looked back since. The techniques she explores in this vibrant craft book truly transform felt into modern, eye-catching home accents.

For this week's How-Tuesday project, we're sharing her pillow with rosette clusters. The gathered felt creates a feast of color for the eye; don't the pictures just make you want to reach out and caress the nestled folds? This project comes from Anne's chapter on gathering and ruching, but her felt techniques cover the gamut, from pleating to applique. Each page of this book leaves me awestruck.

Purchase Felt Furnishings

Sometimes an idea for a new design will come to me when I'm playing around with a piece of felt in my hand. I often find that, when I'm twisting and manipulating the cloth, it starts to suggest interesting forms and shapes that could be used as decorative sculptural surface treatments.

To capture these forms, I have used the traditional techniques of gathering and ruching to create highly textural surface structures from felt and felted wool fabric. Some of these techniques are perhaps more often associated with floral-patterned chintz and lavishly deployed in extravagant soft furnishings; however, when using natural felt or heavy woolen cloth, these same techniques can create a totally different look that is modern, sculptural, and organic. To help to update these techniques even more, I have carefully balanced the flat and raised surface areas within my designs to create a distinct contrast between the textured, frilled, or ruched cloth and the areas of smooth, single-colored felt or wool fabric.

When choosing the colors to use for your gathered and ruched projects, bear in mind that tonal shades will enhance the play of light and shadow, while a contrasting color could be used for the gathered areas to further emphasize the effect of the textured detail against the flat background. Patterned fabric could also be used for the gathered detail, which would create an interesting effect, as the pattern would distort and make the colors merge.

Inspired, in part, by my diving vacations on coral reefs in the South China Sea, this design has a vital, dynamic quality, as the three-dimensional effect plays tricks with the eyes. The wonderful texture and depth of color have been created by folding small circles of bright orange cloth (either felt or felted wool) and packing them very tightly together on the base fabric in order to create a structure that seems alive, and screams out to be stroked.

Materials and Tools

Feather pillow insert, 10 x 18" (25 x 45cm)
For the pillow cover: 23 1/2 x 19" (57 x 47cm) orange felt or felted woven-wool fabric
For the folded rosettes: 20 x 18" (50 x 45cm) orange felt or felted woven-wool fabric
Matching zipper, 18" (45cm) long — optional
Matching sewing thread
Basic sewing kit
Sewing machine

1. If you wish to make a pillow back with a zipper, cut out three pieces of felt for the pillow cover — one piece measuring 11 x 19" (27 x 47cm) for the front and two pieces measuring 6 x 19" (14.5 x 47cm) and 6 1/2 x 19" (15.5 x 47cm) for the back. If you wish to make a sewn-in pillow back, cut the back panel to the same measurements as the front. To make the rosettes, cut out 60 felt circles with a 3" (7cm) diameter.

2. Pinch each felt circle in the middle, and fold the sides in to form a rosette. Hand-stitch the base of each folded rosette to hold it together.

3. Starting at one end of the front pillow panel, hand-stitch the rosettes onto the fabric, stitching neatly and securely through the base of each one.

4. Continue adding rosettes, positioning them very close together to form a dense, wide row of rosettes through the center of the pillow panel. Make sure that the row of rosettes is straight and that there is the same amount of undecorated base fabric on either side of the row.

5. Make up the pillow back and join the front and back following one of the two options below. Insert the pillow form into the finished cover.

Sewn-In Pillow Back

This is a really easy and quick way to apply a pillow backing, and it requires only a small amount of hand-sewing. The back panel of the pillow is cut in one piece, to the same size as the front panel. The front and back panels are pinned together, with right sides facing, then machine-sewn along three sides using a 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance. Once the cover has been turned right side out and the pillow form inserted, the seam is turned in along the fourth side and closed with invisible stitching. The drawback to this method is that, once sewn in, the pillow cover cannot be easily removed for washing, and would require picking out the seam and resewing.

1. Cut a piece of fabric for the back of the pillow cover to the same size as the front panel, including the same 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance (or as specified). Place the two panels with right sides together, and pin along the seam allowance on three sides, leaving the fourth side open.

2. Using matching thread and a small to medium sized straight stitch, machine-sew along the three sides to join the front and back panels together, removing the pins as you sew. Cut off the corners on the diagonal, being careful not to cut through the stitching — this will produce neater corners on the finished pillow.

3. Turn the pillow cover right side out and insert the pillow form. To close the fourth side of the cover, fold the 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance to the inside and pin the edges together.

4. Stitch the two sides together, keeping the stitches as invisible as possible. To do this, work from right to left if you are right-handed and from left to right (as shown) if you are left-handed. Knot the end of the thread, and bring the needle and thread out through one folded edge. Slip the needle through the fold of the opposite edge for about 1/4" (5mm); bring the needle out and draw the thread through. Continue to slip the needle and thread through the opposing folded edges.

Pillow Back With Zipper

Although sewing in a zipper requires a degree of technical skill, this is still not a complicated way to make up the back of a pillow cover, and it is the method that I would recommend using, as it does mean that the cover can be easily removed for cleaning. The back panel of the pillow cover is cut in two pieces, which are joined together in the middle by the zipper, running horizontally. You will need a metal or nylon closed-end zipper in a color that matches your pillow cover. The zipper should be the same length as the pillow form.

1. Cut two pieces of fabric for the back cover. Both should be the same width as the front cover (adding a 1/2" [1cm] side-seam allowance, or as specified); one should be 1 1/2" (3cm) longer than half the length of the front cover, and the other should be 1" (2cm) longer, giving a 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance along the top and bottom edges, and a 1" (2cm) and 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance along the inner zip edges respectively. With the fabric wrong side up, fold in 1" (2cm) along the inner edge of the larger back piece, and press.

2. With the zipper wrong side up, pin one side of the zipper tape along the cut edge of the fold, with 1/2" (1cm) clear at each end for the side seams. Open the zipper. Using the zipper foot, machine-sew the tape in place along the folded edge.

3. Pin the other side of the zipper tape along the inner edge of the other back piece, with the fabric right side up. Machine-sew in place.

4. Fold the edge over to form a neat fold aligning with the zipper's teeth. Machine-sew in place.

5. With the zipper half open, pin the front and back covers with right sides together. Using a 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance, machine-sew around the edges. Cut the corners (shown in step 2 opposite); turn right side out, and insert the pillow form.

Looking for more luscious felt projects for your home? Check out Felt Furnishings for stimulating inspiration. Thanks to Anna Kyyrö Quinn and the good folks at Potter Craft Publishing for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Lunch Bag From Bend the Rules With Fabric

2009-09-01T15:37:00-05:00

Lunchtime at school is an hour of politics: jockeying to get the prime seat, trading tuna fish for fruit roll-ups, and gossiping through juice-stained lips. In an effort to endow you or your child with some social clout, this week's How-Tuesday project is a vintage-inspired lunch bag from Amy Karol's book, Bend the Rules With Fabric. Whether you're going back to school or bringing leftovers to work, this reusable pouch will induce cupcake-worthy envy. Amy's book is all about customizing fabric to fit your style, so the best part of this project is that you could make one for every kid in your class and still feel unique!

Purchase Bend the Rules With Fabric

As a kid, I loved altering my own clothes and fabrics. I was constantly drawing on shoes and T-shirts, embroidering my jeans, and adding bits of trim to all kinds of things. Later, in high school, I airbrushed T-shirts for my first paying craft gig. This was when I had my first sense that I was going to live a life filled with art and design — and a whole lot of messes.

There is something thrilling about marking up fabric. It's easier than ever to learn how to customize fabric — you don't have to take a college-level surface-design class. Nor do you need to break the bank buying supplies in vast quantities: Suppliers have made it easy to get materials, and much of what you need you already have around the house or can find at fabric or craft stores. Look in your kitchen! Stamping can be as simple and inexpensive as using a cut potato and some paint.

We Have the Technology

You don't need a computer to customize your projects, but it sure adds to the fun. A computer, printer, and — even better — a scanner open up a whole world of possibilities. Even though you might use a computer for some of these techniques, that doesn't mean the images have to look digitally created. So many examples of uses for printed fabric sheets involve photos, which is great, but that doesn't even skim the surface of what you can do. For example, you can paint a real watercolor onto paper, scan it, and then print it onto fabric. Wow! You now have the look of a watercolor (a very tricky thing to do directly on fabric) printed onto your fabric from your computer. Same goes with drawing, painting — all of that. The computer is just a tool.

Lunch Bag

I love packing a lunch, and I like to do it in style. Why use disposable paper bags when you can reuse supercute ones? Adorn this clever lunch bag with your favorite images from magazines or books. The fabric for this bag has an image scanned from a vintage magazine, complete with a cookie recipe. This project uses only three photo fabric sheets (or homemade sheets with Bubble Jet Set 2000), and the pattern cleverly uses 8 1/2" x 11" (21.5 x 28cm) sheets, so you won't waste any fabric. Once you make one of these, you'll be hooked.

Finished Size
10 3/8" high x 6 1/4" wide x 3 1/2" deep (26 x 16 x 9cm), unfolded

Materials
Outer bag fabric: (3) 8 1/2" x 11" (21.5 x 28cm) photo fabric sheets for your printer or copier, or homemade sheets using Bubble Jet Set 2000, cut after printing into:

(2) 6 1/2" x 11" (16.5 x 28cm) front pieces
(2) 4 1/4" x 11" (11 x 28cm) side pieces
(2) 6 1/2" x 11" (16.5 x 28cm) front pieces
(2) 4 1/4" x 11" (11 x 28cm) side pieces
(2) 6 1/2" x 4 1/2" (16.5 x 11.5cm) bottom*

Binding:

(1) 2" x 20" (5 x 51cm) piece of fabric for homemade binding, or, if using premade binding, (1) package (3 yards [2.7m]) of 7/8"-(22mm-)wide single-fold bias tape

(1) 1" x 2" (2.5 x 5cm) piece of Velcro (optional)
Vintage magazines or other images to copy
Printer
Sewing machine

Seam Allowance
1/4" (6mm)

*One bottom lining piece is used for the bottom of the outer bag.

1. Prepare your artwork by scanning and printing it onto your fabric at home, or make color copies of it and print it onto color copier fabric sheets at the copy shop. You will need 3 printed sheets total.

For printing images onto fabric sheets, there are two primary options. The easiest is to use sheets designed for your printer (or copier) that have fabric on one side. They come in different fabric types, are usually only white or cream, and can be quite stiff. Several brands make them, and they can be found at most craft and fabric stores. Some things to keep in mind: Not all brands are waterproof/washable, so don't assume they are; read the fine print and care instructions carefully, making sure to check the type of fabric used (a twill is very different from a cotton poplin) and make sure to purchase sheets compatible with your printer. The second option is to create your own fabric sheets. Bubble Jet Set 2000 is a liquid solution that enables you to make your own fabric printer sheets. You can use whatever fabric you want, as long as it is 100-percent cotton or silk. You can save a ton of money. The fabric feels better than premade fabric sheets and is much easier to work with. You also can use colored fabric.

2. Cut out the outer bag pieces from your printed fabric. Cut out the lining pieces and binding strip if you are making binding. (Skip this step if you are using premade binding.)

3. Make the outer bag: With right sides facing, sew the long sides together on the front and side pieces, creating a box without a top or bottom. With right sides together, pin a lining bottom piece onto the front and side pieces. Sew carefully, flaring out the sides and front, stopping and pivoting with your needle down at each corner.

4. Repeat step 3 with the lining fabric.

5. Turn the outer bag right side out. Place the lining bag inside the outer fabric bag, wrong sides together. This will now look exactly like it will when it is done, minus the binding. Baste around the top edge to keep the layers together.

6. Make binding by ironing your strip in half lengthwise. It will now be 1" x 20" (2.5 x 51cm). Align the raw edges of the binding and the top of the bag and lay out on the printed side of the bag, right sides together. Fold the short end of the tape over so there is no raw edge, and stitch using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance from the edge. Flip the folded edge to the inside on the bag, and hand-stitch it to the lining.

7. To create the closure, machine-stitch one Velcro piece centered just under the binding along the top edge of one front piece.

Fold the bag over twice toward the other front piece, and mark where the Velcro touches the other front piece. Stitch the opposite Velcro piece onto the other front piece where the two Velcro pieces would touch.

Tips, Hints, and Other Suggestions:

You can make this with a vinyl lining. Plastic-coated fabric like oilcloth can be tricky to stitch with, so try a Teflon presser foot or use masking tape on the edges and sew through all layers to keep the oilcloth from sticking.
Create a cute closure by stitching an elastic band into the binding on one side and adding a button on the outside front instead of the Velcro.

Looking for more ways to innovate with fabric? Check out Bend the Rules With Fabric for ideas in paint, dye, and thread. Thanks to Amy Karol and the good folks at Potter Craft Publishing for sharing this project with us.

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Amy Karol, a.k.a. The Angry Chicken, Was a Guest Curator

How-Tuesday: Felt Rug from Dorm Decor

2009-08-25T15:50:00-05:00

College living is an extreme in decorating challenges: limited space, limited funds, and limited time. In my years of undergraduate life, I tried wall tapestries, fabric flowers, ceramic tchotchkes, vintage hat mannequins, tie dye, crocheted afghans, mason jars, and more collaging than I care to remember. In an effort to compensate for the cheap generic furniture and beer-stained carpet, I saturated my dorm rooms with a technicolor blur of clutter.

I wish I had found Theresa Gonzalez and Nicole Smith's book, Dorm Decor, back when I was still enrolled, because I was in desperate need of some creative focus. This week's How-Tuesday project is for all of those crafty co-eds settling into their drafty, fluorescent-lit dorm rooms. There is hope! This Felt Rug requires no sewing skills and seems like the perfect project for orientation bonding.

Purchase Dorm Decor

Excited to move into your new room? It could be so many things: A cozy nest. Party central! Cinderblock city. (OK, sorry, dorm living isn't always that dire.) No matter how you imagine your room, the point is, it's yours! How you decorate it and make it your perfect place for the next nine months is entirely up to you.

We like to think of a small, undecorated space as an opportunity to get creative and dream up ways to make it better. We've learned from studying interior design and working at craft and fashion magazines that going from blank box to comfy nest can happen quickly — and on a budget — when you want it to.

Photo of authors Theresa Gonzalez and Nicole Smith by Evan Sklar.

In the end, it's all about putting your own personal style on your surroundings. Think about it: Why would you buy run-of-the-mill linens from the same place you buy your soap and tampons?! It can be much more satisfying to sew something, custom-made, that no one else will have. Create (and think!) for yourself with projects that say free-thinker, not following-the-pack. Gather the girls (and crafty boys, we know you're out there) and take a creative leap — this is your chance to stand out from the cookie-cutter crowd. And come May, when it's time to pack up your things, you can take these tricks with you to next year's sanctuary.

Cut-It-Out Felt Rug

Non-fraying felt makes this project a cinch, and the zebra motif will have your hallmates demanding where you found it. It's so simple you can adjust the technique to make a rug in just about any size or style, including a welcome mat (or good-bye mat behind the door).

You'll need:
Zebra rug template (download here)
2 yards (72" wide) gray felt
2 yards (72" wide) orange felt
4 yards (72" wide) cream felt
6' x 2' piece of 2" grid pattern paper
Carbon paper and tracing wheel
Pencil
Scissors
Fabric Glue

Make the pattern.
1. Using the zebra rug template (download here), draw the zebra rug pattern onto the 2" grid pattern paper. Draw a 2" border around the edges and cut out the template around the outer edges.

Cut out the pieces.
2. Fold the gray felt in half lengthwise and lay it on the floor. Lay the template on the felt with the template's straight edge even with the fold in the fabric. Following the instructions on the carbon paper, trace the design onto the felt with the tracing wheel.

3. Remove the template and carbon paper. Pin the layers of felt together and cut out the design.

4. Repeat for the orange felt.

Assemble the rug.
5. Lay the cream felt out flat on the floor. Unfold the gray felt piece and lay it flat on top of the cream felt. Pin in place.

6. Cut the cream layer to the same size as the outer edge of the gray felt. Glue the layers together with fabric glue and let the glue dry.

7. Place the rug over the cream felt again and cut out another layer. Glue the layers together with fabric glue and let dry.

8. Flip the rug over and place the orange piece in place, matching the raw edges. Pin the layers in place and glue them together.

Looking for more crafty ways to transform your dorm room? Chronicle Books is offering a special discount to Etsy readers! Just use the code "ETSY" at checkout on their site, and you save 20% off the price as well as free shipping.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Art and Hooks Rack from Handmade Home

2009-08-18T15:20:00-05:00

When I was growing up, my favorite spot in our house was the arts and crafts room. A tiny space sized just for my sisters and me, we could be as messy as we wanted in this place for creativity. Amanda Blake Soule of SouleMama whom we interviewed last summer in this post, has just come out with her second book, Handmade Home. Filled with inspiring family stories, rustic DIY projects, and resourceful tips for keeping your home comfortable, eco-friendly, and crafty, Handmade Home makes me want to gather little ones with crayons and redesign every houseware and decoration. For this week's How-Tuesday project, we're sharing Amanda's Art and Hook Rack, a delightfully practical way to display your child's chef d'oeuvres.

Purchase Handmade Home

Most of the things I make are for my family and our family home. Home, is our primary place of comfort, nourishment, love, and soul. Home is our place of peace and comfort both for us and for our children. Filling my home with items I've made by hand — that have, in effect, been infused with love in their making — is one of the ways I show those closest to me how very much I love them. Sprinkling some handmade creations through our home makes it a truly unique representation of who we are. Looking around at the things in our home, I can see who we are, what we value, and how we spend our time. These furnishings become comfort, peace, and the landscape in which our family grows, learns, and loves together.

Blessed by both the history and materials of generations past together with our modern knowledge, awareness, and options, we have a beautiful opportunity at this point in time to make a change in our lives. In a world of increasingly limited earthly resources, it is true that all of our decisions — small and large — have a powerful impact. Our small actions can improve not only our earth, but also our hearts, our spirits, and our children — and bring about the kind of change that is the most powerful, the most heartfelt, and the most personal. Our role in living a greener life for our children and ourselves can begin to reverse some of the damage we have done to the earth and provide a bit of healing for it and ourselves, while at the very same time, providing a home life that is richer in heart, soul, history, and hope for the future. If it is true that peace begins at home, as I believe it does, this change might even reach beyond the walls of our family homes.

In my home — and I'm quite sure in yours, too — there is no shortage of children's artwork. Also in my home, there is no shortage of bags, hats, sweaters, and other things that require hanging. This project is a great way to do something special with all that artwork we love, while also creating a place to hang all the many things that go along with family life at home. It's a little bit of art and function together in one versatile piece that your little ones — and you — will love.

Pattern Details
Intermediate
A day project
Suitable for little hands
Finished size: 24 1/2" x 12" x 1"

Use What You Have
This project calls for a piece of hardwood. Found wood, scrap wood, or salvaged wood is perfect for this project. The wood panel can be any size you desire. A smooth surface that will hold paint and glue well is the only essential. The panel should be at least 1/2" in thickness to accommodate the screws.

Materials
Wood panel: 1 found, scrap, repurposed, or salvaged panel of wood in any size
3-6 hooks or knobs depending on the size of your wood panel
Sandpaper
1 quart of water-based paint
Paintbrush
Ribbon or embroidered trim, the length of your wood panel
Children's artwork
Decoupage glue
Paintbrush for glue
Hot glue or any other kind of heavy-duty glue
Self-leveling saw tooth hangers and nails (for hanging the finished rack)
Screwdriver
Hammer

1. Prepare Materials

Gather all materials and cut the wood to the desired size. If necessary, use sandpaper to even out any rough spots.

2. Decorate Wood Panel

Paint the entire piece of wood — front, back, and all sides. Let the paint dry. Apply a second coat, if desired.

Determine the placement of the artwork, ribbon, and hooks by using the size of the artwork as a guide. Lay the artwork on the panel, and then measure and mark a straight line where you want to place the ribbon that will separate the art and the hooks.

Adjust the artwork on the board as desired, cutting the artwork as needed. Once you've decided on the layout of the artwork, begin to apply the artwork to the panel. With a paintbrush, apply a thin layer of glue to the back of the art. Place it on the panel, and smooth out any wrinkles. Repeat this process for each piece of artwork until the top portion of the panel is covered from the pencil line to the top of the board and across. Apply one final layer of glue over the entire top half of the panel. Let the glue dry.

3. Attach Ribbon

Place the ribbon over the pencil mark, covering the edges of the artwork. Wrap the ribbon around the edges of the wood panel about 1/2" onto the back. Attach by adhering glue to the backside, and placing ribbon in place firmly. Let the glue dry.

4. Finish Art and Hooks Rack

Turn the board over so the back is facing up. Position hangers where desired, and attach them with nails. On the front of the board, arrange the hooks and then use a pencil to mark their placement. Screw the hooks to the board as marked.

Hang your rack on a wall, being sure to secure it safely in a stud or with sheetrock screws.

Earthy Tip
Instead of using traditional commercial paint products, search out a green option. Milk Paint is an environmentally safe and nontoxic alternative to common acrylic or latex paints. Made the old-fashioned way with crushed limestone, this natural paint is an inexpensive, durable, and safe option. Milk Paint also has more variation in color, lending itself well to do-it-yourself projects like this one.

Thanks to Amanda Blake Soule and the good folks at Trumpeter Publishing for sharing this project with us.

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How-Tuesday: Smocked Sundress from Weekend Sewing

2009-08-11T16:06:00-05:00

I particularly love craft passed down through generations; every time I use my grandmother's heavy green metal sewing machine, I imagine channeling the DIY genes through my fingertips. Heather Ross's vibrant book, Weekend Sewing, not only inspires blissful projects like hostess aprons, garden gloves, and baby bloomers, but it also focuses on taking time out of the daily grind to relish the simple joys of sewing. For this week's How-Tuesday project, we're sharing Heather's Smocked Sundress along with some useful tips for sewing with children. You can download the PDF here or follow along below, courtesy of STC Craft/A Melanie Falick Book.

Purchase Weekend Sewing

As a child, I lived with my mom and twin sister in a one-room schoolhouse in the mountains of Northern Vermont. My daily routine was guided by the light and the seasons because — aside from school — there really was nowhere else to be. Our property was bordered by a rushing river that tumbled into a tall waterfall and ended in a deep and perfect swimming hole. Whenever we could, my sister and I would swim and explore the woods and orchards around our house, but when the long, dark winters drove us inside, we would spend countless hours executing elaborate craft projects.

These days, I live in New York City, a place that is ruled by the clock. My life as an artist and designer of fabric and clothing requires me to be accessible, punctual, and dressed appropriately (which means shoes, even in the summertime!). From Monday morning through Friday afternoon, my life is generally about deadlines and timelines and bottom lines. Often, it is only during weekends and holidays — and those few work days when I sneak away and play hooky — that I can take time out to sew for pure pleasure. I think of this as "weekend sewing." Logical as it may seem, for me weekend sewing is not limited to Saturday and Sunday. Rather, I consider it to be any time I am able to immerse so fully in the joy of sewing that I lose track of time and even myself, just like I did as a child. It is my hope that with Weekend Sewing, this book, I will inspire you to steal some time from your busy life for this simple joy — whether sewing for you is a newfound passion or a lifelong friend.

Sewing with Children

In my home studio, I keep a small basket filled with wool scraps, buttons, and various trims. If young guests express an interest in sewing, I help them make a small stuffed toy to take home.

Children aged 5 and up can learn the basics of sewing using simplified tools: try threading embroidery thread through the large eye of a plastic children's sewing needle (these are not too sharp and are easy for small hands to grasp), and practice making simple stitches together on scraps cut from an old sweater. When a child has mastered a basic running stitch and expresses a desire to sew seams more quickly than can be managed by hand, they are ready to be introduced to a sewing machine.

In recent years, a good number of children's sewing machines have become available. Try www.hearthsong.com for wonderful new sewing machines (not toys; these are real machines!) and projects designed for kids. Many people collect vintage children's sewing machines, which are beautiful and fun to use. Some of these vintage machines are operated by hand crank, which can be a bit tedious but gives good control over speed. It can be fun to work together on a hand-crank machine, with one person cranking the wheel while the other guides the fabric.

My students at Purl Patchwork in New York City love this dress, in part, I'm sure, because it only takes an hour or so to make. (I actually whipped one up on the morning of my wedding for my cousin's daughter to wear as my flower girl.) The real beauty of this dress is its shape and fit. It's a great summer standby — casual made in quilting cotton and a little dressier made in linen or printed chiffon. It will fit for more summers than most cotton dresses, due to its stretchy nature and the fact that, in a pinch, it can work as a skirt. You can also extend its life by making it with shoulder straps that tie and can be easily adjusted or by leaving off the straps on the back of this dress, then tying the front straps, halter-style, around the wearer's neck.

Finished Dimensions
Fits 12 months-size 4 (instructions are given for 12-month size, with measurements for size 4 included in parentheses)

Materials
3/4 yard of 45"-wide quilting cotton or lightweight woven fabric, pre-washed (fabric should be lightweight enough to yield to elastic thread)
All-purpose thread to match fabric
Elastic thread wound around an extra bobbin
Water-soluble fabric-marking pen
Transparent quilter's ruler or straightedge
Measuring tape
2 yards of spaghetti strap, bias tape (sewn closed), or ribbon for ties, cut into four equal lengths

Sewing Instructions

1. Press Fabric's Top Edge
With the fabric wrong side up, turn and press the top raw edge 1/4" to the wrong side, and then turn and press this edge again 1/4" to the wrong side. Do not sew this folded edge yet; the pressed lines will be important guides later on. Unfold this edge, and lay the fabric flat.

2. Mark Smocking Lines
With the fabric right side up, use the water-soluble pen and the quilter's ruler or straightedge to draw six (eight) straight lines, each 1/2" apart, across the fabric's width, beginning 1" below the fabric's top edge.

3. Sew Smocking
With elastic thread in your bobbin and the fabric right side up, sew along your marked lines to create six (eight) rows of elasticized smocking. Backstitch or lockstitch at the beginning and end of each row to secure the stitching, and cut the thread before starting each new row. Now you have a panel with elastic smocking across the top.

4. Measure and Trim Smocked Panel
Using a spray bottle filled with water, generously dampen your "smocked" stitches. With a very hot iron set on steam and cotton, press the smocked area flat. You'll notice that the elastic "shrinks up" nicely and that your water-soluble pen marks disappear.

Using a measuring tape, take the chest measurement of the child you're sewing for, and with a water-soluble marker, mark the line from top of dress to hem. Before cutting the panel, secure the elastic threads by stitching across them at your chest measurement with a short, closely spaced straight stitch. Then trim off the marked, excess portion of your panel.

5. Sew and Turn Smocked Panel
Fold the smocked panel with the fabric's right sides together, align the cut edges, and sew these edges together with a medium-width and -length zigzag stitch.

Turn panel right side out, press seam flat (with the seam allowances pressed to one side), and topstitch the seam allowances in place by stitching 1/4" from the seam. This seam now marks the center back of your dress.

6. Mark Strap Positions
Without stretching the smocking, measure 2" from the center-back seam in each direction, and mark these two points with your water-soluble pen. Then measure 6" from each marked point toward the center front of the dress, and mark two more points. These points mark where you'll attach the sundress's four straps.

Turn under the dress's top edge along the pressed creases, tucking the end of one strap underneath the folded edge at each marked point. Fold each strap up, as shown, and press the strap in place before edge-stitching the entire folded edge and the straps in place. Knot the other end of the straps to finish them.

7. Hem Dress
Determine the dress's hem length by measuring the wearer from her underarm to just below her knee, and add 1" to this measurement for the hem itself. Measure and trim the dress to this length. Turn and press the dress's bottom raw edge 1/4" to the wrong side, and then turn and press this edge again, this time 3/4" to the wrong side. Finally edge-stitch the double-fold to finish your hem, backstitching at the beginning and end of your stitching.

Think this dress would be just as cute for Mom? Find the adult version of this pattern on Heather's blog! Thanks to Heather Ross and the good folks at Stewart Tabori & Chang for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Tatami Socks

2009-08-04T17:00:00-05:00

I'm already looking forward to the coziness of bundling up this fall, and nothing is more comforting than a soft pair of hand-knit socks. If you find yourself in the Pacific Northwest this coming weekend, August 6-9, check out the Sock Summit 2009! In the spirit of this knitting extravaganza, this week's How-Tuesday is a project from Judy Sumner's Knitted Socks East and West. The designs in this exquisite book are inspired by patterns of Japanese culture. Sumner writes, "What fun it would be to discover country after country of new stitch patterns!" I love the idea of traveling this summer through my craft projects. You can download the PDF of the Tatami Socks here, or follow along below, courtesy of STC Craft/A Melanie Falick Book.

Purchase Knitted Socks East and West

I have been knitting for sixty years and collecting stitch dictionaries for much of that time, but a couple of years ago, I discovered something new. I found mention of a Japanese stitch dictionary on an online knitting list and, my curiosity piqued, I sought it out. I'd seen Japanese knitting magazines and had even taken a class on reading Japanese patterns, but I had never seen stitches like the one in this book. I had a shelf full of stitch guides, but this one opened my eyes to a whole new realm of possibilities. The stitches were extraordinarily beautiful and exquisitely crafted. Poring over the pages, I couldn't help but wonder where they had come from, and how long they had been around. Whose mind had seen something — a flower, or a butterfly — and been able to translate it into the ornate and complicated pattern in front of me? In the process of writing this book, what began as a foray into Japanese knitting turned into a crash course in Japanese culture.

These socks are named after the woven straw matting called tatami that is used as a floor covering in Japan. The main stitch pattern of this sock, while obviously knitted, looks woven. Today tatami are quite common in Japan, but when they originated in the seventh century, they were a luxury reserved for the wealthy; the lower classes covered their dirt floors with fabric mats. The tatami had two layers filled with rice straw and decorative fabric bindings.

In this pattern — one of the least complicated in this book — the woven "tatami" effect in the body of the sock is created with a simple six-stitch and eight-round repeat that requires only knits, purls, and the center double decrease. I sized my Tatami socks for adults and children. Both versions are worked from the cuff down, but on the adult version, the tatami stitch pattern is repeated twice on the instep. On the child's, it is repeated only once since the foot is much shorter.

Sizes
Child (Adult)

Finished Measurements
5 1/2 (7 1/2)" Foot circumference
6 (9 3/4)" Foot length from back of heel
5 1/2 (10)" Leg length to base of heel

Yarn
SR Kertzer On Your Toes Bamboo
(75% bamboo / 25% nylon; 100 grams / 328 yards): 1 skein #ON260805 Seashell Multi

Needles
One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size 2 (2.75 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions
Stitch marker

Gauge
25 sts and 38 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st)

Stitch Patterns

Pattern A (Child only) (multiple of 4 sts)
Rnds 1-4 and 6: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 5: *K2tog, yo, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 7: *Yo, ssk, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rnds 8-11: Repeat Rnd 1.

Pattern B (Adult only) (multiple of 4 sts)
Rnds 1-4, 6, 8, and 10: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rnds 5 and 9: *K2tog, yo, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rnds 7 and 11: *Yo, ssk, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rnds 12-14: Repeat Rnd 1.

Pattern C
(multiple of 6 sts; 8-rnd repeat)
Rnd 1: *K3, yo, s2kp2, yo; repeat from * to end.
Rnds 2, 3, and 4: *K3, p3; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 5: *Yo, s2kp2, yo, k3; repeat from * to end.
Rnds 6-8: *P3, k3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rnds 1-8 for Pattern C.

Leg

CO 36 (48) sts. Divide sts evenly among 4 needles [9-9-9-9 (12-12-12-12)]. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twists sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin Pattern A (B); work even for 11 (14) rnds. Knit 1 rnd.
Next Rnd: Change to Pattern C; work even until piece measures 4 1/4 (8)" from the beginning, ending with Rnd 4 or 8 of Pattern C.

Heel Flap

Set-Up Row 1 (RS): K9 (12), turn.
Set-Up Row 2: Slip 1, p17 (23), working all 18 (24) sts onto 1 needle for Heel Flap, and removing marker. Leave remaining 18 (24) sts on 2 needles for instep.
Row 1: Working only on 18 (24) Heel Flap sts, *slip 1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl to end. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (ten) times.

Turn Heel

Set-Up Row 1 (RS): Slip 1, k10 (13), skp, k1, turn.
Set-Up Row 2: Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 1: Slip 1, knit to 1 st before gap, skp (the 2 sts on either side of gap), k1, turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog (the 2 sts on either side of gap), p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (three) time(s), omitting final k1 and p1 sts in last repeat of Rows 1 and 2-12 (14) sts remain.

Gusset

Next Rnd: Needle 1: Knit across Heel Flap sts, pick up and knit 9 (12) sts along left side of Heel Flap, M1; Needles 2 and 3: Knit across sts on instep needles; Needle 4: M1, pick up and knit 9 (12) sts along right side of Heel Flap, k5 (7) from Needle 1. Join for working in the rnd; pm for beginning of rnd-50 (64) sts [16-9-9-16 (20-12-12-20)].
Next Rnd: Needle 1: Knit to last 2 sts, skp; Needles 2 and 3: Knit across sts on instep needles; Needle 4: K2tog, knit to end-48 (62) sts remain.
Decrease Rnd: Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, skp, k1; Needles 2 and 3: Knit; Needle 4: K1, k2tog, knit to end-46 (60) sts remain [14-9-9-14 (18-12-12-18)]. Work even for 1 rnd. Repeat Decrease Rnd every other rnd 5 (6) times-36 (48) sts remain [9-9-9-9 (12-12-12-12)].

CHILD SIZE ONLY
At the same time, when 12 sts remain on Needles 1 and 4, continuing with Gusset decreases on Needles 1 and 4 as established, change to Pattern C across Needles 2 and 3.

Foot

CHILD SIZE ONLY
Work even until 1 vertical repeat of Pattern C has been completed. Change to St st (knit all rnds) across all needles. Work even until Foot measures 4 3/4", or 1 1/4" less than desired length from back of Heel.

ADULT SIZE ONLY
*Next Rnd: Needle 1: Knit; Needles 2 and 3: Change to Pattern C; Needle 4: Knit. Work even until 1 vertical repeat of Pattern C has been completed.*
Next Rnd: Change to St st. Work even for 1 3/4".
Repeat from * to * once. Change to St st. Work even until Foot measures 8 1/4", or 1 1/2" less than desired length from Back of Heel.

Toe

Decrease Rnd: Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, skp, k1; Needle 2: K1, k2tog, knit to end; Needle 3: Knit to last 3 sts, skp, k1; Needle 4: K1, k2tog, knit to end-32 (44) sts remain. Knit 1 rnd.
Repeat Decrease Rnd every other rnd 3 times, then every rnd 0 (3) times-20 sts remain (5-5-5-5). Knit to end of Needle 1.

Finishing

Break yarn, leaving long tail. Transfer sts from Needle 1 to Needle 4, and sts from Needle 3 to Needle 2. Using Kitchener st (see General Techniques, page 140), graft Toe sts. Weave in ends. Block lightly.

Thanks to Judy Sumner and the folks at Stewart Tabori & Chang for sharing this project with us.

Read more knitting-related posts. More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog. And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Tool Apron from Sew What! Bags

2009-07-28T16:23:00-05:00

The only toolbox I've ever known is my overflowing crate of crafting materials. Having my tools organized and easily accessible sounds too good to be true. Every quilter, crocheter, and gardener deserves a handmade tool belt perfectly suited for her needs.

For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing Lexie Barnes' Tool Apron project to equip you for a summer of crafting and gardening. Lexie's book, Sew What! Bags, is full of delightful totes, sacks, satchels, and purses that are pattern-free, so you can alter and tweak to your heart's content.

Lexie's Design Principle:

Sewing without a pattern may seem like a scary prospect to some... and liberating to others. Personally, I like the freedom and flexibility of pattern-free sewing. I want a bag to work for me, not the other way around.

I can't stand to read instructional manuals, stick strictly to a recipe, or follow the steps exactly as they are written anywhere. If there are too many steps, I'll skip them. If the instructions are too wordy or full of jargon, I'll ignore them and find my own way of doing things. In this book, from the first project to the last, you'll be able to jump right in and start sewing. You'll find simple steps and streamlined projects — fabulous bags you can make on your own to suit your taste, skill level, and style.

Click here to buy the book!

We made this apron to hold quilting supplies, but you can customize yours for any craft, hobby, or project. Be sure to choose your fabrics and pockets to suit the job. For gardening tools, you'll want canvas or maybe oilcloth. For crochet supplies, you'll want a variety of pocket sizes for slim hooks and skeins of yarn.

Our finished size: 8" x 16" with a 66" belt

Measure and Cut

1. Decide your size. For a good fit, base the size on your favorite kitchen apron, or measure your torso from hip to hip and add a couple of inches for seam allowance. For the height, measure from your waist (or hip, if you like to wear it low) down to anywhere you like. It's your tool apron, so make it as long — or short — as you need it to be.

Ease into it. Figure out how big your pockets need to be before you finalize the size of the apron. Lay your tools out on your fabric and measure them. Be sure to allow for some ease (a little bit of extra room to get your objects in and out of the pockets). Keep your tools handy while you're sewing and test along the way to make sure you've got a good fit.

2. Cut your fabric. Based on your measurements, cut:

primary fabric: one front and one back piece
contrasting fabric: one pocket panel and two belt pieces (We cut ours 4" wide for a finished width of 1 1/2". For the total length of the belt, we measured around the waist, and then added 16" for tying the ends.)

Put it Together

3. Make the pocket. Press under the top edge of pocket panel 1/4", then repeat for another 1/2". Edgestitch along the bottom fold. With right sides facing up, pin the pocket panel to front apron panel. Based on your measurements, stitch dividers for your pockets, backtacking at the top of the pocket panel. There's no need to stitch the sides or bottom, as that will happen in the next step.

4. Assemble the apron. Lay the back apron piece on top of the front piece, right sides together. Stitch the sides and bottom, leaving the top of the apron open. Clip the corners, trim the seam allowance, turn the apron right side out, and press. Fold under the top edge 1/2" to the inside, press, and topstitch.

5. Make and attach the belt. With right sides facing, stitch the two belt pieces together to make one long strip. Press under the edges 1/2" on all sides, fold it in half lengthwise, and topstitch.* Center the belt on top of the apron, aligning the top edges of the belt and apron. Pin the belt in place and topstitch it to the apron along the length (following the stitching on both sides of the belt), backtacking at the ends.

*More Details for Making Straps:

1. Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press along the fold. Open up the strip, press each side under 1/2".

2. Refold the strip with the sides tucked in, and edgestitch along the length of both sides for greater strength.

For Larger Straps and Belts:
For a wider strap that will be used as a belt, the method is the same, but turn under the ends 1/2" before refolding. If the fabric is bulky, trim away excess fabric at the folded corners, then stitch across the folded ends.

Once you try out this Tool Apron, be sure to post photos of it in the Sew What! Bags Flickr pool! Your images could be featured on Lexie's website.

Thanks to Lexie Barnes and the good folks at Storey Publishing for sharing this useful project with us! Looking for more How-Tuesday posts? Check out our archive here.